CABBAGES, HOW TO GROW THEM, ETC. IT 



If tho manure in any of the hills is too strong, the 

 fact will be known by its effects on the plants, which 

 will be checked in their growth, and be of a darker 

 green color than the healthy plants. Gently pull away 

 the earth from the roots of such with the fingers, and 

 draw around fresh earth ; or, what is as well or better, 

 transplant a healthy plant just on the edge of the hill. 

 When the plants arc finger high they are of a good size 

 to transplant into such hills as have missed, or to market. 

 When transplanting, select a rainy day, if possible, and 

 do not begin until sufficient rain has fallen to moisten 

 the earth around the roots, which will make it more 

 likely to adhere to them when taken up. Take up tho 

 young plants by running the finger or a trowel under 

 them ; put these into a flat basket or box, and in trans- 

 planting set them to the same depth they originally 

 grew, pressing the earth a little about the roots. 



If it is necessary to do the transplanting in a dry 

 spell, as usually happens, select the latter part of the 

 afternoon, if practicable, and, making holes with a 

 dibble or any pointed stick an inch and a half in diam- 

 eter, fill these holes, a score or more at a time, with 

 water ; and as soon as the water is about soaked away, 

 beginning witli the hole first filled, set out your plants. 

 The evaporation of the moisture below the roots will 

 keep them moist until they get a hold. Cabbage plants 

 have great tenacity of life, and will rally and grow 

 when they appear to be dead ; the leaves may all die, 

 and dry up like hay, but if the stump stands erect and 

 the unfolded leaf at the top of tho stump is alive, the 

 plant will usually survive. Some advocate wilting tho 

 plants before transplanting ; others challenge their vigor 

 by making it a rule to do all transplanting under the 

 heat of mid-day. I think there is not much of reason 

 in cither course. 



