WATEEING, ETC. 273 



to the use of manure, is to apply none for several years, 

 until the trees have begun to show signs of feebleness and 

 exhaustion, when large quantities are applied, thus in- 

 ducing a rank j^lethoric growth, that can scarcely fail to 

 be seized with diseases. The proper way is to apply a 

 small dressing of well-decomposed material, like some of 

 the composts recommended, overy autumn. This should 

 be forked in around the extremities of the roots. There 

 may be rich soils where this will be unnecessary ; but 

 most ordinary garden soils require it. 



3d. MulcMncj. — This should be a universal practice in 

 our dry and warm summer climate, not only with newly- 

 planted trees, but all, and especially dwarfs in the garden 

 whose roots are near the surface. Three or four inches 

 deep of half decayed stable manure or litter makes a 

 good mulching. It should be applied in May, and remain 

 all summer. After the fall dressing a mulching for the 

 winter will protect the roots and base of the tree from 

 injury; it should be so well decayed as not to attract 

 vermin. 



4th. Watering. — In dry times, and especially in light, 

 dry soils, fruit trees will derive vast benefits from a liberal 

 syringing over head in the evening, with a hand or garden 

 syi'inge (see implements). A reservoir in the garden is 

 therefore desirable, and at a point, too, easy of access from 

 all the quarters of the garden. This watering refreshes 

 the trees, drives away insects, mildew, etc., and washes 

 off dust and filth that may accumulate on the foliage and 

 fill up the pores. It is more necessary in city and village, 

 than in country gardens. 



Protecting trees against extremes of temperature. — 

 "Where the trunk or large branches are liable to injury 

 from sudden changes of temperature in the winter, or 

 from a powerful sun in summer, they may be covered 

 thinly with long rye straw, fastened on with willows. 

 12*^ 



