76 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



April, igcg 



incubating or incipient cases. There is 

 then a certain amount of suspicion justi- 

 fiable as to trees propagated from pits 

 grown and buds cut in yellows-infected 

 districts. I am inclined to think that this 

 possibility of yellows transmission has 

 been rather overworked, however, by 

 orchardists. 



REPLANTING AFTEB YELLOWS 



The trees can be replanted where yel- 

 lows trees have been dug up and they 



will live and bear well. This has been 

 demonstrated repeatedly for over forty 

 years, both in New York state and Michi- 

 gan. I recall very clearly some excellent 

 cases of this sort in the Niagara county 

 fruit belt in the orchards of Dr. C. A. 

 Ring and Mr. Jesse Lockwood. Some 

 orchardists have combatted this idea and 

 held the opposite opinion but it should 

 be remembered that replanted trees have 

 the same opportunity to catch the disease 



as the original tree. In fact, experience 

 shows that yellows causes less trouble 

 in replanting, and the same thing is true 

 of "little peach" disease, than root rot, 

 black peach aphis, eel worm disease, or 

 other root diseases. All of these in fact 

 live over in the soil and cause serious 

 trouble on the young tree set in the place 

 of the one dug out. This is, of course, 

 quite another matter from the yellows 

 question. 



Wii\do\ir Boxes, Hanging Baskets and Rustic Stands' 



THE main point to be considered in 

 selecting plants for a window box, 

 hanging basket or rustic stand, is 

 their suitability for the position they are 

 to occupy as regards a sunny or shaded 

 position. As a rule, plants that succeed 

 in a sunny position, will succeed to some 

 extent in a shaded position, with poorer 

 flowering results possibly. Plants suited 

 particularly for a shaded position, how- 

 ever, will not succeed well in a burning, 

 sunny position, even with the best possi- 

 ble care and culture. This fact should 

 be borne in mind when getting a box 

 filled by a florist or in selecting plants 

 to fill the box or stand yourself, as it is 

 one of the main points leading to success 

 or failure. Tell the florist whether the 

 plants are for a sunny or a shaded posi- 

 tion when getting a box filled. 



The tall growing plants are best suit- 

 ed for the back row of the box, the low 

 growing and those of a trailing habit 

 for the front and ends, and intermediate 

 sized plants for filling in between the 

 back and front row if necessary. In fill- 

 ing rustic stands and hanging baskets, 

 place the taller growing plants in the 

 centre. 



Another point in the selection of plants, 

 is not only to have good sized plants, 

 but to have plenty of them so as to fur- 

 nish the box well at once, planting so 

 that there are no bare-looking spots when 



Box Filled for Sonny Position 



finished. To have a bright and pleasing 

 looking effect select chiefly bright, light- 

 colored foliage plants, as well as a pre- 

 ponderance of the lighter shades and 

 colors of flowering plants. A good ad- 



*The conclusion of Mr. Hunt's article tiiat hue been 

 running in recent issues. 



Wm. Hunt, Ontario AgriculturallCollege, Guelph 



mixture of white, pink, blue and yellow 

 should be used to brighten up and re- 

 lieve the ground-work of dark green fol- 

 iage and the heavier shades of scarlet 

 flowers so often seen in window boxes. 

 Brightness is one of the main points to 

 be considered in the effectiveness of win- 

 dow boxes, baskets and rustic stands. 

 The following list of plants includes most 

 of the varieties that can be effectively 

 used for sunny or shaded positions : 



Tall Plants for Sunny and Slightly 

 Shaded Position. --Dv/arf cannas, Ian- 

 tana, coleus, salvia, irisene, geraniums, 

 ivy-leaved geranium. 



Low Growing and Trailing Plants. — 

 Vinca Japonica, periwinkle {Vinca minor) 

 nasturtium, Othonna crassifolia, annual 

 and perennial sweet alyssum, dwarf agera- 

 tum, creeping Charlie, dusty miller {Cen- 

 taurea gymnocarpa) Mesembryanthemum 

 roseam, petunia, verbena, Mme. Salerio 

 and other fancy geraniums, Gnaphalium 

 lanatum, Gazania splendens and perennial 

 tropaeolums. 



For very Sunny Position. — Cacti, 

 echeveria, agaves, Sansevieria zeylanica, 

 aloes and other succulent plants can often 

 be made use of. 



Tall Plants for Shaded Position.- — 

 Palms, dracaenas, cyperus, fuchsias, be- 

 gonias, aspidistras, araucaria, rubber 

 plant (Ficus elastica) Asparagus plumo- 

 sus. Pandanus Veitchii, Pandanus utilis 

 and crotons. 



Sweet peas, convolvulus, tropaeolums, 

 Cobea scandens and climbing nasturtiums 

 can also be used very effectively in some 

 positions as a background, as well as 

 forming a shade for the window. 



Low Growing Trailing Plants for 

 Shaded Position. — Lobelia, cigar plant 

 iCuphea) nasturtium, TropcBoliim canar- 

 iensis, tradescantia.senecio or German ivy 

 Lophospermum scandens, Campanula iso- 

 lepsis. Convolvulus minor, leopard plant 

 (Farfugium) Anthericum variegatum, As- 

 paragus Sprengeri, Festuca glauca, Scir- 

 pus riparius. 



Many of the plants mentioned, such as 

 salvia, ageratum, petunia, verbena, cen- 

 taurea, Cobea scandens, lobelia and trop- 

 ajolum can be grown from seed. Sow 



the seed indoors about the end of March 

 or early in April, and grow indoors until 

 end of May or early June. Sow nastur- 

 tium, Cobea scandens and tropseolum 

 seeds, two or three seeds in a small pot, 

 as they do not transplant very well. There 



Box Filled for Sliaded Position 



is probably no one kind of plant better 

 suited for window boxes than both the 

 dwarf and tall nasturtiums. They are 

 indispensable for this class of plant decor- 

 ative work. Seeds of these last named 

 sown in the window box about the end of 

 May will of themselves make a pleasing 

 effect in a box or stand, but are later in 

 flowering. 



Worms in Flower Pots. 



The earth around some of my plants seems 

 to be filled with tiny worms. Can you tell 

 me how to destroy them ? Will it be neces- 

 sary to repot the plants with fresh earth? 

 As my palms are large, I would like to avoid 

 this if possible. What is the cause of the 

 trouble.?— Mrs. W. E. T., Bowmanville, Ont. 



Worms may be removed from pots 

 very easily. If the pots are small turn 

 them upside down and strike the edge of 

 thepot on something hard, when it can 

 easily be removed. The worms can then 

 be^ seen and may be picked out of the 

 soil. If the pots are large, and not 

 easily removed, take a lump of lime un- 

 slacked, as large as one's fist, and place 

 in a half gallon of water. When slacked 

 and the lime settles to the bottom of the 

 can, water the plant with the water, and 

 the worms, if any, will soon disappear, 

 and the roots will be benefitted by the 

 warming from the water. — Roderick ' 

 Cameron, Toronto. 



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