240 COOKERY OF THE HARE 



took counsel with Mr. Bellamy, of Jermyn Street, and 

 in him was fortunate enough to find not only an 

 experienced expert in regard to the selection of 

 game, but an observant sportsman, a bit of a natural- 

 ist, and a practical amateur cook. What more could 

 I want? 



Now, it is interesting to announce that his view 

 is quite in accord with the authorities 1 have just 

 mentioned. It is briefly this : After she has put on 

 her white winter coat, the Scotch mountain hare for 

 flavour against the field, and for the very reasons 

 that have been recorded in favour of the wild-bred, 

 wild-fed pheasant. She feeds on wild, aromatic plants, 

 lives in quite a wild state, is seldom disturbed, and 

 really acquires something of the taste of grouse. 

 The species is small, no doubt, and carries less flesh 

 than the English hare or that of the Lowlands, but 

 what there is of it is excellent. Yet, adds Mr. 

 Bellamy, very few will allow this. As for the English 

 hare, he points out that since the Ground Game Act 

 came into force the animal has had to contend against 

 too many enemies, with the result that it has deterio- 

 rated in its edible quality. That is to say, hares killed 

 on preserved estates, where they have lived quietly 

 without being harassed, are probably as good as ever 

 they were, but not so where shooting is not restricted 



