COOKERY OF THE [HARE 251 



English sauces few are better than a good Hver sauce, 

 but for this you must sacrifice a most valuable ele- 

 ment in the stuffing. I have, nevertheless, found clever 

 game dealers who, if you spoke earnestly to them, 

 would sometimes discover that a hare had two livers. 

 Sauce soiibise, or better still sauce soubise to??iafee, is to 

 be recommended. The good brown sauce I men- 

 tioned apropos of the rab/e a la crcme may be simply an 

 honest Espagnole made on a proper meat-broth basis, 

 but such a sauce will always be vastly improved for 

 service with game when flavoured with a fumet, or 

 essence of game. 



In well-managed country houses, where game is 

 plentiful throughout the season, there should be no 

 lack of opportunity for the concoction of this valuable 

 flavouring medium, for birds much knocked about, 

 or a hare that has been shot in an ungentlcmanly 

 way, will always provide the needful material. The 

 extraction is simple enough : — Cut up the game in 

 small pieces, bones and all, and give them a pre- 

 liminary fry in butter with a good allowance of minced 

 onion and carrot till beginning to brown, then add a 

 claretglassful of chablis (if the quantity of game stuff 

 be about a pound) and a bouquet garni. Continue to 

 cook gently till the moistening is all but exhausted, 

 and then add two gills of good broth ; simmer for an 



