COOKERY OF THE HARE 255 



and judgment, while jugged hare may be called a self- 

 cooked stew, which any beginner with a good recipe 

 to follow can manage. In the former the juices of 

 the meat are preserved by preliminary frying, in the 

 latter all the value of the preparation is in the sauce, 

 the meat being as a rule ' done to rags.' The word 

 civet^ according to Mr. E. S. Dallas, is to be traced 

 to the old French word cive or clvette, the modern equi- 

 valent of which is ciboulette^ in English chive {Al/ii/m 

 Schcenoprasu7?i)^ and its application to the dish we are 

 discussing indicates that originally chives took the 

 place in the composition now filled by onions. Dubois' 

 civet, an excellent illustration of the newest form of 

 treatment, maybe given concisely as follows : — Having 

 cut up the hare into neat pieces, season them highly, 

 and marinade them with a few spoonfuls of cognac 

 and a sprinkling of sweet herbs for six or eight hours. 

 Then drain, dry, and fry them over a fast fire in melted 

 bacon fat till thoroughly saisis. Dust over now with 

 flour, turn the meat about for a few minutes longer, 

 and then moisten with enough warm broth and red 

 wine to cover, two-thirds of the former to one-third of 

 the latter. The wnne should have been boiled before- 

 hand in a non-tinned vessel, or the colour will be 

 affected. Now bring the contents of the stewpan to 

 the boil, and after ten minuties at that temperature 



