2S8 COOKERY OF THE HARE 



course long been established, though there seems to 

 be but little difference between Scotch and English 

 recipes of the old school, and absolutely no difficulty 

 about either. Better flavour may no doubt be obtained 

 from mountain hares, for the reasons already given. 



Large quantities of port wine were formerly con- 

 sidered essential in these preparations, with spices, ham, 

 red-currant jelly, ketchup, orange or lemon juice, &c. 

 The great Careme, when chef to the Prince Regent, 

 evolved a potage de lievre a la St. George., for the 

 moistening of which he required one bottle of the best 

 champagne, and one of fine claret, with four ladlefuls 

 of pure consom??iL When presented, this intoxicating 

 fluid was garnished with escalopes of hare, quenelles of 

 partridge meat, and mushrooms and truffles in slices. 

 But cultivated taste at the present time looks for sim- 

 plicity in cookery, and the highly overwrought com- 

 pounds that were once so popular have passed out of 

 fashion. The chief thing in hare soups now is to have 

 a really good meat stock to cook the hare in — ' brothe 

 of fieshe,' as Richard II. 's cook laid down — to extract 

 the pure flavour of the animal with as few accessories 

 as possible, and to use light French wine in moderate 

 quantity. The back fillets can always be taken for 

 an e?itree, leaving plenty of material for a good soup. 



The hare has always been looked upon in the 



