COOKERY OF THE HARE 261 



and dice of beef marrow), a la Thercse (with chopped 

 ham and oHves in a transparent sauce, thickened with 

 pulverised tapioca and flavoured with reduced chablis 

 and g2imQ fianet), and cotelettes a la Maitland^ maybe 

 specially instanced. The last is worth giving in 

 detail as an instance of artistic simplicity. M. Gogue, 

 whose name I have previously mentioned, claims to 

 have invented the dish when filling the position of 

 chef to Lord Maitland, ^ Mt?iistre de la Marine 

 Anglaise.^ The cutlets are neatly shaped out of the 

 back fillets and finished by the introduction of a bone 

 in each of them — either a chicken pinion bone or 

 one of the ribs of the hare. They are then simply 

 breadcrumbed and fried, and served with a plain 

 brown sauce strongly flavoured with 2ifumet extracted 

 from all the debris left of the hare after trimming the 

 cutlets, chablis or sauterne having been used in the 

 making of the essence. M. Gogue does not say that 

 he marinaded or larded the cutlets. I think that 

 both processes would improve matters, the larding to 

 be drawn through, not in and out, and snipped off 

 close to the meat with scissors. M. Dumas borrowed 

 this recipe for his ' Grande Dictionnaire,' but alludes to 

 the author of it, erroneously, as ' M. Legogue.' Those 

 who like pounded and minced meats in entrees can of 

 course indulge themselves with pain de lievre or de 



