Rod-making. 221 



the rod ; though even then the former course is the 

 more judicious. The object is to obtain the greatest 

 strength and elasticity of which the material is capable. 

 To accomplish this we have learned that all moisture 

 must be expelled which can be driven off without over- 

 heating the wood. But there are other points not to be 

 overlooked. Dried wood absorbs moisture from the at- 

 mosphere with great rapidity; and, as far as strength and 

 elasticity are concerned, it is immaterial whether the in- 

 jurious moisture is that originally present in the wood, 

 or is acquired by absorption from the air. To obtain the 

 best results, the joint should be removed from the dry- 

 ing-room after it has been there some time and finished 

 ready to varnish. Then it should be dried again for a few 

 days, and then removed and varnished while still warm. 



Let us assume the test has been applied, and with sat- 

 isfactory result. Take the joint in your left hand, and 

 with your pocket-knife trim off the corners for about half 

 or three-quarters of an inch at the larger end, till you 

 have reduced the section of that end to an octagon, 

 as shown by Fig. 38 (the dotted lines represent where 

 your cutting is to cease). 



Work a little at each edge in succession, using care 

 that when you finish, each of the eight sides is equal, and 

 your octagon perfect in form. You must by no means 

 in so doing touch either of the four planed sides only 

 the corners are to be cut. Now, treat the smaller end in 

 the same way. The two ends will then serve as a guide 

 to inform you when you have planed the whole joint to 

 an octagon, which is your next step. 



To do this successfully you should have a grooved 

 trip of pine in which to lay the joint. Any carpenter 

 can make one for you, or you can make it yourself by 



