224 Fly-rods and Fly-tackle. 



an inch longer than the entering part of the male ferrule, 

 and drop it inside of the female ferrule when about to set 

 it. As that ferrule is pushed on, the wood will move be- 

 fore the entering joint. If the last quarter of an inch is in- 

 serted by thrusting the ferrule against any solid substance, 

 the wood will strike when the proper point is reached, and 

 prevent the ferrule from being pushed beyond it. 



Having coated both the joint and the inside of the fer- 

 rule, melt the cement on both, and push the ferrule into 

 place, giving it a twisting motion in so doing, if possible. 

 The excess of cement (and an excess should be applied) 

 will be crowded before the ferrule. Then wet a knife, 

 that the cement may not adhere to it, and take it up for 

 use another time. Warm the rest till fluid, and wipe it 

 off clean with a rag. Should any of the thread have 

 been pushed down before the ferrule, be careful in re- 

 moving it to make no transverse cut in the wood, for 

 such a cut, though hardly perceptible, will detract thirty 

 per cent., if not more, from the strength of the joint. 



Here it might well be asked what cement should be 

 used. To this it may be answered, avoid shellac and 

 red-lead or white-lead, or anything which sets as hard 

 as a stone, and which, should the joint break at the fer- 

 rule, will require a degree of heat sufficient to anneal the 

 metal before the broken piece can be pushed out. 



I have used hard shoemaker's wax, gas-fittter's red- 

 wax, engraver's wax, marine glue, Bottom's cement, gut- 

 ta-percha gum, and shellac. The latter is most common- 

 ly used in scales, not in solution unless it be very thick. 

 The desiderata are a cement which will melt and release 

 the ferrule at a low temperature, but which will other- 

 wise hold fast. At the edge of the ferrules is the weak- 

 est part of the rod, and there at least three out of five 



