250 Fly-rods and Fly-tackle. 



stantly has been, with large flies and against heavy fish ; 

 yet it is as straight to-day and as even in action as when 

 strung up for its maiden cast. This desirable result I 

 attribute solely to the practice, when the rod is in use, 

 of turning it in the handle at frequent intervals so that 

 the rings are alternately on top and underneath say 

 three or four times an hour. In short, I am as firmly 

 convinced that the independent handle, when used as 

 indicated above, protracts the prime of the useful life 

 of a rod many times over, as I am that fly-fishing is the 

 first of out-door sports. 



Remember always to oil or tallow your ferrules, espe- 

 cially the handle-ferrule, and then wipe them dry before 

 jointing your rod. You will then never be plagued by 

 having the joints stick and refuse to separate, and your 

 handle-ferrule will turn with smoothness and ease, as it 

 should. 



All the strain imposed on the rod is transferred to, 

 and must be overcome at, the junction of the handle and 

 butt joint. It is well, therefore, to give special attention 

 to this point. If the ferrule to receive the butt is to be 

 sunk into the handle which is the method I prefer so 

 that only its mouth appears, it should run the whole 

 length of the grasp. Otherwise, if you overstrike, and 

 on a solid fish, there is danger of splitting the handle. 

 With this construction ten and a half inches is long 

 enough for this part. In this case, having bored the hole 

 to receive it, warm the ferrule, coat it with cement, and 

 push it into place with a twisting motion. If the cement 

 cools by contact with the interior of the handle, and in- 

 clines to stick, warm a round metal rod and insert it in- 

 side of the ferrule. This will re-melt the cement, and you 

 can easily enter the ferrule the remaining distance. 



