Rod-making. 355 



finishing the latter. But in this case, as in all others 

 where fastening pins are used in rod construction, the 

 pin should go through from side to side so that it can 

 be driven through and out, should the separation of the 

 parts ever become desirable. The philosophy of an 

 ideal composite mechanical structure resembles that of 

 the ideal knot, in that its parts should not only remain 

 in perfect co-operative union as long as desired, but 

 should also permit of ready separation and reassembling 

 at will. 



VARNISHING. 



The next step in making a wooden rod is varnishing ; 

 and for this purpose shellac is the worst, and coach-body 

 varnish the best. The object sought is to cover the rod 

 with a coating that will be absolutely water-proof, will 

 not crack ; and should it receive a blow, will dent and 

 not chip out. The former gives an easy, speedy, and 

 poor result; the latter is more tedious, but once on is a 

 permanent protection. Rod-makers complain of coach- 

 body varnish that it is a very tedious drier, but this is 

 mainly because they do not know how to use it. Hung 

 up in a room, a thick coat may not be dry enough to 

 handle in two weeks ; but if you will be governed by 

 the following directions, your patience will not be sub- 

 ject to anything like such a tax. 



First fit a plug provided with a wire hook to each of 

 your ferrules, to hang the joint up by when drying. 

 Then apply your varnish in as thin a coat as you can. 

 This is one of the secrets of success as thin a coat as 

 you can apply. To aid in this, thin the varnish with 

 spirits of turpentine until it works freely, and all brush- 

 marks flow together readily and soon after application. 

 A stiffish brush must be used. Now, if the weather per- 



