ROCK, WALL AND BOG GARDENS. 



their accommodation, which may invite invidious comparisons with the native sur- 

 roundings of the plants. 



Generally speaking, however, the charm of the Alpine garden is in its details, in the 

 care and nurture of individual plants, and the study of the conditions under which they 

 thrive, for, notwithstanding all that has been said of the impossibility of reproducing 

 those conditions on the aesthetic side, on the imitation, as nearly as possible, of the soil 

 and aspect with which these plants favour, the whole effect will depend. This will involve 

 some knowledge of the geological distribution of the particular genus, for though most 

 of these little plants are fairly tolerant of unsuitable rock material, the best results can 

 never be obtained unless the grower understands which of them belong to the granite, 

 the limestone, and the sandstone formations. 



Although those persons whose preferences lead them to look with favour only on 

 vivid masses of rampant colour such as we endeavour to obtain in the herbaceous 

 borders, will look with contempt on the Alpine garden, it is nevertheless one of the 

 most delightful as well as the most difficult branches of the horticulturalist's art, and 

 the very fact that it requires infinite patience and considerable study of the needs and 

 preferences of individual plants makes it particularly attractive to the person who loves 

 a garden. Of course the attempt to rear too many of the most delicate and difficult 

 varieties will spoil the general ap- 

 pearance entirely, and, while a few 

 may be attempted, the more robust 

 should predominate in order to 

 give the necessary effect of more 

 vigorous growth. 



In constructing the Alpine 

 garden, the main thing is to re- 

 member that a light sandy soil on 

 a dry foundation is necessary. 

 Nevertheless, the soil must not be 

 too sparse, and behind the rocks 

 and stones, or between the crevices 

 of the virgin rock must be cool 

 depths of sandy loam if the plants 

 are to survive a hot summer. In 

 the case of an artificial garden, by 

 which is meant one not formed on 

 natural rocks, the soil should be excavated for a depth of about two feet throughout 

 the entire area, and the bottom be filled up with dry hard material, such as brickbats 

 and clinkers, to a depth of nine inches in order to give perfect drainage. If the area is 

 at all restricted this will best be done by overhand trenching, as described in the chapter 

 on kitchen gardens, and the soil should be well screened and the flints or stones placed 

 among the rough material. On this can be placed the rocks and soil, the latter enriched 

 with light manure if at all poor, and mixed with sand if heavy or clayey. The 

 finished garden may be of any extent, according to the space available and the amount 

 of money it is desired to spend on construction and upkeep. In any case, sufficient 

 of the roughly paved paths and steps to allow of every part being reached and examined 

 at close quarters will be necessary. The provision of a water supply is also of 

 importance, as the garden will need watering in hot weather. 



There is, however, another form of wall garden besides that which has for its foun- 

 dation a specially-built wall of large blocks. In most old domains, and in nearly all 

 that are being re-formed from farmsteads, there are walls of the local building material, 



FIG. 269. STEPPING STONES IN THE ROCK GARDEN. 



Old walls. 



209 



