THE FORMAL ARRANGEMENT OF TREES. 



white balls of colour which these plants produce in Spring, and the fragrance of their 

 blossoms are sufficient in themselves to make any garden attractive for the time being. 

 Dwarf Dwarf topiary work stands in a class by itself and is quite distinct from the ordinary 



topiary. topiary, though it often accompanies it. It consists of patterns, generally repeating 



scrolls, worked out in lines of dwarf box, trimmed very close and on a background of 

 gravel. While there are examples which show that this class of gardening is capable 

 of great development, its usual application is the formation of a garden in a position 

 which is too cold, damp and over-shadowed for successful flower growing, and which 

 the owner was at a loss what to do with. Under such circumstances it is not surprising 

 that the vision called up to the mind by the dwarf topiary garden is a somewhat 

 depressing place, shut in on all sides, and where even the hardy dwarf box shows 

 evident traces of a hard struggle for existence. If, on the other hand, dwarf topiary 

 work is used for decoration of the most formal terrace of all, between the architecture 

 and the first flower garden, it may be most effective, but even here it must be carried 

 out on a somewhat large scale or it is apt to look a little out of place. It is essentially 

 a feature suited to large gardens. 



Filbert Before closing the subject of formal trees, the old-fashioned filbert walks must be 



walks. mentioned. Not only are these very pleasing features with their fresh green foliage 



and cool shade, but are productive also and are content with the sustenence to be derived 

 from mere garden rubbish, or almost any stony barren soil. They were welcome 

 inclusions in the old gardens and were usually planted on the outer fringe of the 

 more formal portion, where they helped artistically to merge the trim garden into the 

 landscape beyond. Of late years, filberts have been neglected, but results such as 

 those read of in old gardening books may of course, still be secured. Growers of cob 

 and filbert nuts are agreed that much better results can be obtained by trimming or 

 pruning the branches than by shearing or pleaching, while the effect is equally good, 

 if care be exercised in the knifing. By knifing is meant the trimming of branches 

 separately by secateurs or garden knife as opposed to shearing or clipping. Cob and 

 filbert nuts look most effective when planted one foot six inches to two feet apart in 

 the rows, but the heaviest crops are secured by planting not less than four feet six 

 inches to five feet apart. 



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