PLANTING FOR LANDSCAPE EFFECT. 



Qf- 



thorn, crab, wild, cherry, willow and spindle tree. For Winter effects we should plant 

 those evergreens which age picturesquely, such as Scotch fir, cedar of Lebanon, yew and 

 holly in preference to the youthfully showy spruce firs, Austrian pines, Indian cedars and 

 Lawson's cypress, which belong to the garden proper, and not the parklands. 



In the latter position it is even more necessary than elsewhere to plant in masses 

 of one sort. Beeches by themselves form a splendid group, as do oak, elm, sycamore, 

 horse chestnut, Norway maple, cherry, thorn, etc., while the effect of a few Scotch 

 firs standing on a bluff rocky spur, in both Winter and Summer, is well shown by the 

 two photographs of Brathay Craggs on the shore of Windermere given in illustrations 

 Nos. 4 and 5. 



When plantations are first formed, it is best to plant quick-growing trees and 

 undergrowths somewhat thickly amongst the permanent trees, to act as nursers, and 

 give the former shelter until they are well established. The latter will, of course, be 

 cut out by degrees, as the permanent subjects need more room for growth and expansion. 



If the park is to be grazed by cattle it will be necessary to fence the plantations, 

 special care being taken that they cannot reach and feed 

 on yews, as these are a deadly poison, though greedily 

 eaten by all forms of farm stock. The best fence is that 

 which is least conspicuous without being flimsy, and, for 

 most positions, I have seen nothing better than strong 

 iron hurdles. These may be rendered still more incon- 

 spicuous by planting outside them hollies and other things 

 which the cattle will not touch, as described in speaking 

 of the form the plantation should take. Within the fence, 

 the trees should not be planted in any regular pattern, 

 and covert plants, such as yew, holly, dogwood, privet and 

 mahonia, may be scattered at irregular intervals towards 

 the margin, and, at times, recede far into the plantation. 



The best way to obtain the effect of wild primeval 

 woodland and avoid all suggestion of artificiality is to 

 prepare the ground and sow liberally those native trees 

 which can be raised from seed, replenishing the sowings 

 every fourth year to atone for the depredations of birds 

 and vermin. This is of course a very lengthy process, and 

 often the subsequent thinning, if unskilfully done, will leave a stiffer effect than if the 

 ground had been planted in the usual way. 



Wherever new plantations are to be formed, whether in the garden, park or moorland, 

 the ground should be properly trenched and prepared.* This may at first sight seem 

 needless expense, but practical experience of planting both with and without trenching 

 abundantly proves that the extra cost is far more than compensated for by the greater 

 rapidity with which the trees and shrubs take root and grow, and the permanent effect 

 of their appearance which results. Greater care will, of course, be necessary in preparing 

 beds for choice shrubs in the garden than in the case of those for plantations in the 

 park, both as regards depth of soil and the amount of peat and manure added ; but 

 both should be thoroughly trenched. How the surface of the bed should be shaped 

 is clearly shown by comparing the plan and sections of a small plantation given in 

 illustration No. 353. 



When planting single specimen trees, either in the park or on the lawn, the mistake 

 is often made of forcing the roots into a hole which is far too deep and narrow. Instead 

 of this a broad hole should be made and a layer of top-spit from a pasture mixed with 



* For a description of trenching, see Chapter XV. 



353- 



Fencing 



park 



plantations. 



Wild 



natural 



effects. 



Prepara- 

 tion of 

 ground for 

 plantations. 



275 



