SEEDS AND SEEDLINGS. 17 



manner to the freezes of winter they begin to sprout 

 early in the spring. They are then taken up and sifted 

 to separate them from the sand. 



All that are sprouted are planted at the distance the 

 seedlings are desired to stand — from five to twelve 

 inches, according to soil. The seeds that show no 

 signs of sprouting are put back into the bed to remain a 

 few days. By repeating this process several times the 

 most of the seeds that would come up the first year can 

 be separated from the others and planted. In this way a 

 regular stand will be obtained. If planted in the fall 

 there will be some irregularity. Seeds can be kept in 

 good condition from summer till fall in a dry cellar mix- 

 ed with dirt. If from any cause the seeds cannot be plant- 

 ed early in the spring, sprouting may be retarded by 

 burying them deep in the ground. Peach seeds from the 

 North should be avoided, as the yellows, a fatal disease, 

 prevails in some sections of the Northern States. Small 

 quantities of peach seedlings may be obtained in spring 

 by transplanting to nursery rows, the volunteers found 

 under bearing trees, when one or two inches high. 



If the ground is moderately fertile and the seedlings 

 are well cultivated they will be large enough to bud the 

 summer after planting ; if to be grafted, it is done 

 the following spring. Small peach seedlings can be 

 taken up and grafted in the hand the same as apples, 

 but they do not succeed so well. (See chapter on Whip 

 Grafting.) Peaches are usually budded at the North. 



Plum and almond seedlings are used to some extent as 

 stocks for peaches ; but on most soils the peach succeeds 

 best in the United States, when budded or grafted on its 

 own roots. The best soil for the peach is a good sandy 



