PRUNING. 



55 



done at any time during the winter when there is no frost in 

 the wood. Pruning tools will break much easier when the wood 

 is frosty. The winter is often the slack season in fruit districts 

 and the work can be done cheaper then. Some pruning may be 



done at the end of the 

 growing season in late 

 summer, but this is apt 

 to start a late fall growth 

 which is objectionable in 

 tbe colder districts. 



Cut Close and Clean. — 



First, make a study of 



the tree to be pruned and 



then follow some defin- 



Fig. s.-Effect of pruning. a.-Scar ^^e plan to train that 



from a limb properly removed, after tree. The best orchard- 

 two years, b. — Stub left from care- . . „kx„:„„ki„ „v,«„i/i 

 less pruning. 'st obtainable should 



do the work. All cuts 

 should be made with sharp tools and close to the shoulder. 

 Stubs should never be left as they will not heal over and only 

 cause decay in the tree. In making the cut, if it be a large limb, 

 saw from the bottom up a short distance, then take the saw out 

 and saw down so as to meet the under cut. This will prevent 

 the limb splitting off and 



causing serious injury to y ^^^jims^^ y^.. >^v, 



the tree. Always make a 

 clean sharp cut. It will 

 heal much quicker than 

 a rough, bruised or jag- 

 ged one. 



Paint the Cut.— It is a 

 good plan to apply a 

 thick white lead paint to 

 any wounds over an inch 

 in diameter as this keeps 

 the wood from di-ying 

 out. Paint only the 

 wounded part. Grafting 



Fig. 9. — Result of cutting too far from 

 trunk, a.— Section showing stub, 

 b.— Decay from long stub penetrat- 

 ing heart of tree. 



