UP THE IRRAWADY BEAUTIFUL SCENERY 269 



Rangoon or Mandalay. A loud blast or two from the whistle, 

 a few revolutions of the paddle, and we are in mid-stream. It 

 is wonderful with what dexterity and skill these huge river 

 steamers are manoeuvred and made to answer their helm by 

 the skippers in command, most of whom are, by the way, 

 Scotchmen, who have very often, as I have personally wit- 

 nessed, found themselves in very tight places. The greatest 

 caution is requisite in turning sharp corners, avoiding sand- 

 banks, and the many large unwieldy Burmese " paddy " or 

 rice junks, and huge teak or bamboo rafts which come swing- 

 ing along with the wind and current regardless of all rules of 

 the road. The steamer after leaving the wharf at 8 a.m. pro- 

 ceeds on its way up-stream, passing numerous islands and 

 sand-banks. The hills which may be seen on approaching 

 Mingun to the west of the river are the Sagaing hills. A 

 huge pagoda-like-looking building composed of bricks, with 

 the massive Mingun bell alongside it, a description of which 

 has already been given, may now be seen. On the right bank 

 three miles above Singu, Kyauk-Myaung, in the Shwebo dis- 

 trict, is next reached after a run of twenty-four hours, and en 

 route are passed several large islands. This village is situated 

 on the sloping banks of the river. Singu is the head-quarters 

 of the northern subdivision of the Mandalay district. 



Ten miles further on, on the right bank, we come to Kabwet, 

 the head-quarters of the Burma Coal Mining Co. The coal 

 found here is said to be of good quality. The third defile is 

 here reached, the river contracting considerably for some 

 miles, and the hills, which are covered with luxuriant vegeta- 

 tion, rising up boldly from the banks on either side. Towards 

 evening the village of Thabeitkyin, prettily situated on the 

 rising banks of the river, is reached. This place is the quay 

 or river port for the Ruby Mines district, the head-quarters 

 of which is Mogok, situated some sixty-one miles inland from 

 the river bank at an elevation of about 3000 feet above sea 

 level. A good metal cart road at great yearly expense is 

 maintained between this town and the Irrawady. Five years 

 of my service were spent in this district, and it was here that 

 some four or five months of my short leave were spent, in the 

 pleasurable excitement of big-game shooting. I may also be 



