. 



Canoeing in Swift Water 



Have the upper end of the handle so fashioned that 

 it will have a flat palm about two inches wide and eight 

 inches long, extending from the hand-hold down towards 

 the blade. You will find these flattened shanks of great 

 assistance when carrying a canoe over a long portage, 

 as you can stick the blades of your paddles under the 

 after thwart of your canoe and the other ends over the 

 centre thwart, and use them for shoulder rests while 

 carrying your craft, a flat shank resting on each shoulder. 



When one is fishing in swift water from a canoe, 

 there are a good many different implements to think 

 of and handle namely, the paddle, the pike-pole, the 

 kellick or anchor, the rod, and the dip-net; consequently, 

 it is best to have the various tools so arranged that they 

 are always conveniently at hand. 



Personally, I do most of my paddling and poling on 

 the right-hand side of the canoe, and the implements 

 are arranged as follows: I place an oil-coat or sweater 

 in the bottom of the canoe to kneel on, just forward of 

 the after thwart; the pike-pole is shoved under the 

 two forward thwarts and over the one I am resting 

 against, with the point toward the stern and on my left 

 hand; the anchor or kellick is swung outboard and hauled 

 close up against the pulley with a rolling hitch of the 

 rope around the centre thwart. (It is important to 

 have your anchor rope so fast that a quick twitch of the 

 rope will let the anchor run to bottom.) 



The rod, which I have previously assembled and made 

 ready for fishing, is also at my left with the tip overhang- 

 ing the stern and the butt resting on the bottom of the 

 canoe and about under the centre thwart; the dip-net 

 or gaff is lying on the bottom of the canoe with handle 

 toward me. I paddle to the foot of the first run, then 

 lay the paddle in the bottom of the canoe beside the dip- 

 net, pull the pole back and out from under the thwarts 



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