14 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



occasionally to keep them from wilting. 

 About October 1, the vines were killed 

 by frost. Being somewhat curious to 

 know the result of my experiment, I at 

 once proceeded to dig the potatoes. I 

 found them growing in a vertical cluster 

 attached to the base of each plant. 

 Some of the largest were 15 inches in 

 length and two inches in diameter. The 

 product of one hill numbered 35. So 



well pleased am I with the result, that 

 I shall try to grow at least 100 plants 

 next year. 



From my knowledge of the climatic 

 conditions which prevail in Western 

 Ontario, I feel satisfied that all the sweet 

 potatoes required by Canadians might 

 be grown in that part of our fair domain. 

 They seem to thrive best in a warm soil, 

 which should be deeply cultivated and 



well enriched. The vines resemble the 

 morning glory or the English ivy, and, 

 like these, will form roots at the axils 

 of the leaves should they come in contact 

 with the soil. 



The Colorado potato beetle has no use 

 for the foliage of the sweet potato plant. 

 The absence of all insect pests in connec- 

 tion with its culture is of itself a source 

 of great satisfaction. 



TKe Culture of Caulifld^er" 



AFTER 40 years' experience in 

 growing and handling the cauli- 

 flower, I find that it requires the 

 closest attention from the planting of 

 the seed until the crop is sold, to secure 

 a good profit. With a good crop there 

 is a good profit ; a poor crop gives a 

 \ rge deficit. 



ere is a greater demand for choice 



'. u ers to-day than for any other 



vegetable. It now requires thousands 



of heads to meet the demand where a 



few years ago hundreds would do. 



THE SOIL 



If properly prepared, any good soil 

 will grow a fair crop. The land best 

 adapted to growing a successful crop is a 

 deep, rich loam that is thoroughly 

 drained (underdrained if possible), so 

 that it may be easily kept loose and 

 mellow to retain moisture in a dry 

 season. 



The land should be made as rich as 

 possible by repeated applications of 

 well-rotted stable manure. Mix each 

 application with surface soil to a depth 

 of not more than four or five inches, so 

 as to form a rich humus that will retain 

 moisture even in the driest season. 

 The fall is the proper time to prepare 

 the soil. 



GROWING THE PL.\NTS 



One cannot be too careful in selecting 

 the seed. The best is always the cheap- 

 est. If 3^our seed merchant gives you 

 good seed, stick to him. I have pro- 

 cured my seed from the same house for 

 years and have always received it good 

 and true to name. My favorite varieties 

 are: Snowball, Erfurt and Rennie's 

 Drouth Resister, for both early and late 

 crop. I grow a few Autumn Giant, but 

 find it not so sure a header, although it 

 produces some extra fine ones. 



For early crop, sow the seed early in 

 March in a well-prepared hot bed and 

 sow thinly. Thickly-grown plants are 

 more liable to "damp off." To pre- 

 vent this, the bed should have plenty 

 of fight and air, and not be watered too 

 often. As soon as the plants are large 



♦The essay on growing cauliflowers that won 

 first prize in the competition conducted by the 

 Ontario Vegetable Growers' Association. 



A. KnigHt, Cataraqui, Ontario 



enough to handle, they should be potted 

 in fair-sized pots or transplanted into a 

 new bed, which should be prepared 

 several days before needed. Great care 

 is required in setting out the young 

 plants to prevent any serious check to 

 their growth. A stunted plant is liable 

 to head up prematurely and is worthless. 

 By potting the plants, we get a much 

 earlier crop and surer heads, and that 

 means dollars. The plants can be set 

 in the field quite earl}', as they will 

 stand considerable frost. 



The seed for the late crop should not 

 be sown before the middle of May, and 

 should be sown thinly in the very best 

 soil to get good stocky plants. These 

 do not require transplanting before set- 

 ting in the field. Tate plants require 

 watching to prevent the cabbage fly 

 from checking their growth. Tobacco 

 .dust or hellebore, dusted on Hghtly 

 while the plants are damp, is the best 

 preventative against them. Do not set 

 plants too small. If kept growing rapid- 

 ly, as they should be, they will be ready 

 for the field in five weeks. 



Transplanting should be done on a 

 damp, cloudy day. I find it a good 

 plan to take up the plants the day 

 previous to setting in the field, leaving 

 plenty of soil on the roots, and to place 

 them in a damp cellar. New rootlets 

 will start. It is a great help as it pre- 

 vents wilting. They are more easilj'- 

 handled and the growth is checked very 

 little. 



CULTIVATION IN FIELD 



Before setting plants in the field, the 

 soil should be made loose and mellow 

 by repeated cultivation, but not worked 

 when too wet. For the early crop, I 

 set the plants in rows three feet apart 

 and 20 inches between the plants in the 

 row. For late crop, rows the same and 

 30 inches between plants. Before plant- 

 ing, give the field a good dressing of 

 wood ashes, so that it will be well mixed 

 in soil by frequent hoeings and cultiva- 

 tion, which must be kept up until the 

 crop is grown. Weeds should be kept 

 down after plants are too large for cul- 

 tivation, by hand pulling or hoeing, as 

 the crop needs all the moisture the soil 

 will give it. 



The green worm must be kept off, 

 Paris green or hellebore is a sure pre- 

 ventive. I prefer using the latter, as 

 many customers object to the use of 

 Paris green. If necessary, go over the 

 field several times. Begin in time. They 

 are sure to ruin the crop if not effectually 

 dealt with. 



As soon as heads begin to form, great 

 care is required in tying up, to protect 

 them from the sun, wind and dust. 

 Perfect heads are what we should aim 

 to get. From them we derive the 

 profit. The tying should be so done 

 that it will be easy to see when the head 

 is ready to cut. Good judgment is re- 

 quired. It is better to cut a little early 

 than too late. Young, tender heads 

 are more saleable. More are consumed 

 if taken to market young than later. If 

 danger from frost threatens, the leaves 

 should be tied more closely. This will 

 protect the heads from a certain amount 

 of frost, say seven degrees. 



When the growing season is over, all 

 plants that show signs of heading should 

 be pulled and placed in the root house. 

 Removing all leaves that are not re- 

 quired to protect the head. Leaving 

 the roots and soil that lift with the plant. 

 vStand them as closely as possible and 

 bank up the outer side. You will thus 

 have nice, small heads for a long time 

 after the outside heads are done. 



MARKETING 



When marketing, the heads must be 

 handled with care so as to reach the 

 consumer in a perfect condition. I use 

 a crate holding three tiers, 12 in each. 

 The crate is partly open, so that the 

 buyer can examine the contents. For 

 shipping, use large barrels. Wrap the 

 heads with paper and pack firmly so 

 that they cannot move. 



Nothing will run away with money 

 like an uncared for greenhouse. 



During the past there has been too 

 much jealousy among the vegetable 

 growers. There is much to be learned 

 by reading, and also a great deal to be 

 gained by the growers relating to each 

 other their experiences with the various 

 crops. — H. E. Reid, Toronto. 



