32 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



ety is nearly 200, but as it has only 

 been within the past few years that the 

 public of the west has been turning its 

 attention to the subject of gardening 

 and home adornment, and as the inter- 

 est in horticulture is bound to develop 

 as better and more comfortable homes 

 are evolved, it is safe to predict a 



much larger membership in the near 

 future. 



A brief reference to the horticultural 

 possibilities of the prairies may interest. 

 While we are debarred from growing 

 many species that thrive in more humid 

 and warmer climates, we are still permit- 

 ted to enjoy some of the most beautiful 



of the shade trees and shrubs that are 

 grown in eastern Canada; many of the 

 small fruits are reliable and yield abund- 

 antly; some success has been reached 

 with hardy apples and other tree fruits; 

 and we enjoy a succession of radiant 

 bloom in the flower garden from May to 

 October. 



THe A.inateur*s GreenKouse 



DAFFODILS that were planted late 

 in the fall outside, should now be 

 brought inside. To have them in 

 flower for March, the pans or pots should 

 be placed under the benches. Leave 

 them there until the third week in 

 February, then place them on the 

 bench, partially shading the place where 

 they,stand; this will give better stems. 

 A little later, move them to the light and 

 keep in a temperature of about 55 de- 

 grees. After that, less heat is required to 

 bring them into bloom. Do not give 

 anv bottom heat, and keep the plants 

 in a night temperature of not over 50 

 degrees. Give plenty of sunlight and 

 ventilation. 



HVl^RANGEAS 



It is time to start forcing hydrangeas. 

 Hydrangeas that were grown in pots 

 last summer ripen their wood sooner 

 than field-grown ones. .AH unshapely 

 plants should be straightened and put 

 into acceptable form before growth 

 starts, by staking and tying where 

 needed. Do the work neatly. When 

 starting to force hydrangeas, place them 

 in a temperature of 45 or 50 degrees. 

 Do not give too much water at first, but 

 sprinkle frequently. After the new 

 growth breaks, increase the temperature 

 gradually until 65 degrees is reached, 

 in which the plants should be kept until 

 flowers commence to show color. Then 

 place the plants in cooler quarters. 



MISCELLANEOUS 



If you wish good cuttings, your stock 

 plants must have proper attention. Sup- 

 ply plenty of sun and light. A low 

 temperature and wet soil will kill helio- 

 tropes and salvias, and the mealy bug 

 will destroy the coleus stock plants if 

 kept in moist atmosphere. Pruning 

 is often necessary to regulate the 

 growth. In propagating, either by 

 seed or cuttings, the best habited speci- 

 mens should be selected. To materially 

 aid the development of young plants, 

 keep everything clean on the propagat- 

 ing bench. 



Azaleas should be given the greatest 

 care. Free the plant of all refuse and 

 dead matter. If they are starting to 

 grow, keep them in a temperature of 60 

 degrees at night and spray daily. To 

 insure a uniform growth, pinch back the 

 more vigorous shoots. 



Fall propagated geraniums should now 

 be shifted into three-inch or three and 

 a half-inch pots and potted firmly in 

 rather heavy soil. Cuttings may be re- 

 moved from these plants in from three 

 to five weeks. If branches are desired, 

 pinch out the tops of the young plants. 



plants should be fixed either by tying 

 or bending the canes around stakes. 



Palms should be kept dry, especially 

 when the thermometer is down. 

 EASTER LILIES 



Lilies intended for Easter should be 

 on the bench. As is usually the case, 



Last Season's Border of Old-fashioned Perennials at Ontario Agricultural College 



The early date of Easter this year 

 necessitates a longer period under glass 

 for our early flowered hardy shrubs, 

 hybrid perpetual and Rambler roses, 

 in order to have them ready for this 

 most important floral festival. Bring in 

 your hybrid perpetual roses at once and 

 stand them in a cool house. There is no 

 possibility of immediate root action; 

 and, as the roots and top will start to- 

 gether, it is advisable to wait a week 

 before pruning the tops, so that the 

 work can be more carefully done and 

 the proper number and kind of eyes 

 left on the stem. 



Rambler roses require very little 

 pruning. When there are plenty of 

 strong canes, all that is necessary is to 

 cut away the wood that flowered last 

 spring and the unripened tips of shoots. 

 If a mulch of cow manure is intended, 

 wait for two weeks until the roots are 

 active. Before starting to leaf, the 



they will vary in the headway made. 

 By assorting them into two or three 

 grades, better results will be had from 

 now on. When they are first brought 

 to the bench, they should be partially 

 shaded until the leaves have turned 

 from white to green. At first, they 

 may be kept in a temperature of about 

 50 degrees. In the course of 10 days, 

 more heat must be afforded, but give it 

 gradually. Probably 60 degrees is best. 

 Great heat will bring the most backward 

 into shape, provided they are furnished 

 with an abundance of active roots. 

 Should you have planted diseased or 

 immature bulbs, it is beyond your 

 power to produce satisfactory results 

 in forcing. Fumigation for aphids 

 should not be neglected, but do not wait 

 until the centres of the plants are over- 

 run with them. As soon as the lilies are 

 brought into the house, fumigate regular- 

 ly once a week. 



