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OUR QUESTION AND ANSWER DEPARTMENT 



IVeaders of The Horticulturist are invited to submit Questions on any pHase of Horticultural -worK 



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Grafting W^ax 



I desire to top-graft some apple trees. What 

 are the ingredients and directions for making a 

 good grafting wax? — M. T. S., Falmouth, N.S. 



The following formula has been used 

 lor many years with satisfaction, as it 

 does not melt and run down the tree by 

 the heat of summer or crack by the cold 

 in winter: Resin, four parts; beeswax, 

 two parts, and tallow, one part. Melt 

 the ingredients in an iron vessel over a 

 slow fire, mixing thoroughly and taking 

 care not to burn. When well incorpor- 

 ated, in half an hour or so, pour con- 

 venient portions from time to time in 

 cold water, and when sufficiently cooled 

 in a minute or less, take out and pull 

 like taffy until it becomes Ught colored, 

 when it may be made into rolls three or 

 four inches long and an inch in diameter, 

 for convenience in use. A little tallow, 

 as little as possible, will be necessary 

 on the hands to prevent sticking. As 

 the sticks are made they should be 

 placed in another vessel containing cold 

 water to harden, after which they 

 should be put away in a cool place until 

 they are wanted for use. 



XKomas Slag for PeacHes 



When commercial fertilizers are used on or- 

 chard soils, is it necessary to plow them down? 

 How much Thomas slag per acre should be used 

 for peach trees growing on light, sandy soils? 

 — J. S., Beamsville, Ont. 



I do not think that it is good practice 

 ever to plow down commercial fertilizers. 

 They should be sown on the surface and 

 then harrowed or worked into the sur- 

 face soil. They will find their way down 

 quickly enough. For peach trees grow- 

 ing on Hght sandy soil, Thomas phosphate 

 may be used at the rate of 300 to 400 

 pounds an acre, and on such soil it might 

 be well to use some potash fertihzer in 

 addition to the Thomas slag. — Answered 

 by Prof. R. Harcourt, O.A.C., Guelph. 



Pruning Small Fruits 



When should I prune grapes and small 

 fruits? — J.P., Toronto. 



Grapes and small fruits may be pruned 

 in spring before growth starts. March 

 is a good month for the work. 



Nitrate of Soda for L^a-wns 



Will nitrate of soda improve a lawn that is 

 bare in spots and moss-grown in others? When 

 should it be applied, and how much per square 

 rod?— B. McN., St. vStephen, N.B. 



It is hard to give a definite answer 

 from the conditions given, but I fear 

 that, if the lawn were moss-grown in 



spots, the soil is somewhat sour or acid, 

 and, therefore, I would recommend the 

 application of some manure, which would 

 neutralize the acid. This the nitrate 

 of soda will not do. It is quite probable 

 that the use of some Thomas phosphate, 

 which contains a considerable quantity 

 of lime besides phosphoric acid, would 

 correct the sourness. This might be all 

 that the soil needs. If from known 

 conditions it is considered that the 

 ground is fairly rich, it may be that the 

 addition of hme would correct the 

 acidity and would be sufficient. If it 

 would not, I would be inclined to apply 

 Thomas phosphate, some nitrate of 

 soda, and some form of potash fertilizer. 

 The different constituents may be ap- 

 plied in the early spring. If nitrate of 

 soda is used, this should be applied in 

 the growing season, and then in very 

 small quantities or it will bum the 

 leaf. — Answered by Prof. R. Harcourt, 

 O.A.C., Guelph. 



Poppy, Limnocharis Hutnboldti, is pretty 

 and takes up very little space.— An- 

 swered by A. H. Ewing, Woodstock, Ont. 



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Mild 



e-w on 



Plants 



Treating Primroses 



What shall I do with my primroses after 

 blooming during the winter? — Mrs. A. J., Knowl- 

 ton. Que. 



The uncertainty of next season's 

 blooming, and the care required during 

 the summer make it unprofitable to 

 carry the plants over. Start new plants 

 from seed or purchase new ones from 

 your florist at the proper season. 



Plants for "Water Garden 



Will you name the best plants to make a 

 small water garden, six by nine feet, and the 

 number that would be likely to grow in such 

 a small space? — M.M., Toronto. 



Plant two tubers of Nelumhium speci- 

 osuni at one end in a space separated from 

 rest of pond by a 10 or 12 inch board on 

 edge. If hardy lilies are planted prob- 

 ably one of the stronger growing vari- 

 eties would fill the rest of the pond — 

 Nymphcea maiiiacea rosea (pink). A'', m. 

 chroniatella (yellow), or N. m. albida 

 (white) are vigorous growers, free and 

 continuous bloomers. Two less vigor- 

 ous but otherwise as good varieties 

 might be tried, say Nymphcea tvberosa 

 rosea (pink), and A'', t. maxima (white). If 

 tender Hlies are planted, one of either of 

 the following would do, viz., Nymphaa 

 Devoniensis (pink, night blooming), 

 A'', rlentala (white, night blooming), or 

 A'^. Zanziharensis (blue, day blooming). 

 Two or three plants of Umbrella Grass, 

 Cyperns alteinifolius, or Papyrus anti- 

 quorum in pots might be stood in the 

 pond, not submerged. The little Water 



67 



What causes mildew on plants, and what is 

 the remedy? — ^W. M. C, Newcastle, N.B. 



Mildew is a fungus that develops 

 rapidly in damp weather. Flowers of 

 sulphur dusted on the leaves when they 

 are damp will prove an effective remedy. 



Gro-w or Buy — "WHicH ? 



Should the gardener grow or buy his vege- 

 table seeds? — D. B., Renfrew, Ont. 



The latter is much the wiser and 

 safer plan. It is better to purchase 

 seeds from those who make a specialty 

 of growing them. Such men can afford 

 the time, labor and expense required to 

 secure seeds of the best pedigree or 

 strain. The ordinary grower's method 

 of seed selection at home is to save the 

 seed only from plants remaining in the 

 garden after the best specimens have 

 been gathered for market; while the 

 best seed is that which has been gathered 

 from the best plants of the best strain. 

 Occasionally the gardener may raise his 

 own seeds with advantage, as in the case 

 of one who is making a specialty of 

 growing a particular class or variety of 

 vegetable. 



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Diseased Lettuce 



Am bothered with rust on lettuce in green- 

 houses. Free from disease last winter, but had 

 considerable the winter before. The seedlings 

 were line and healthy this season, so cannot 

 account for rust. Kindly state the cause of, 

 and remedy for this disease. — A. B., Stamford, 

 Ont. 



We are not certain what the disease 

 referred to is, as there are several dis- 

 eases that affect lettuce, none of which 

 is known by the name of "Rust." 

 Names of these diseases are the Grey 

 Mould, Sclerotium disease, the Drop or 

 Rot disease and Downy Mildew. As it 

 is difficult or practically impossible . to 

 treat these diseases by spraying, some 

 other means must be found. The plan 

 usually adopted is to sterilize the soil. 

 If it is not found practicable to sterilize 

 all the soil, it is wise to treat as much of 

 it as possible, even an inch on the surface 

 very often will check the spread of the 

 disease to a large extent. The use of 

 fresh manure should be avoided and old 

 soil should not be used unless sterilized. 

 The lettuce house should be kept as well 

 ventilated as possible. — Answered by 

 W. T. Macoun, Dominion Horticulturist, 

 C.E.F., Ottawa. 



