244 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



October, 1907 



and do not give them heat until neces- 

 sary. Watch for insects and use in- 

 secticides. Spray well to get rid of 

 red spider. 



IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN 



Beets, carrots, parsnips, turnips and 

 winter radish should be taken out of 

 the ground and stored. Some par- 

 snips and salsify may be left in the 

 ground all winter to be dug in the 

 spring. 



Rhubarb may be planted or the Old 

 patch renewed by digging the roots, 

 dividing them and re-setting. Rhu- 

 barb may be grown in the house cellar 

 for winter use. Dig some roots now, 

 leave them on the surface of the ground 

 or put them in a cold frame to freeze. 

 Later, place them in the cellar on the 



It will stand a little frost without in- 

 jurv. Store either in trenches or in a 

 cellar, preferably the latter in our 

 climate. 



If you want home-grown lettuce and 

 radish for Christmas and New Year's, 

 sow the seed now in a mild hot bed. 

 Watch the young plants closely and 

 protect against heavy frosts. 



A winter supply of parsley may be 

 had by transferring some of the roots 

 from the field to a pot or box, and grow- 

 ing them in a light cellar or in a shed. 



Mushroom beds may be made any 

 time in fall. There is just enough un- 

 certainty in the culture of this crop to 

 make it of particular interest. Try a 

 bed this fall. Watch it carefully, take 

 photographs occasionally, and when 



A Group of Rare and Valuable Plants at the Niagara District Exhibition 



Exhibited by Mr. Roderick Cameron, Queen Victoria Park, Niagara Falls, Ont, 



floor or in a barrel, where they will 

 produce tender and juicy stalks. 



When the tops of asparagus are suf- 

 ficiently dry for them to be broken by 

 a harrow or rake, gather and burn. 

 Work a top dressing of well-rotted 

 stable manure into the soil. 



Harvest squash, pumpkins and mel- 

 ons before danger of frost. In har- 

 vesting, leave an inch or so of the stem 

 so as to prevent rot. Store in a dry 

 place. Late celery should be har- 

 vested before the end of the month. 



the crop is all harvested, write a letter, 

 stating your experience, to The Cana- 

 dian Horticulturist. * 



If you contemplate changing the 

 vegetable garden next season, early in 

 October is the best time to begin the, 

 work. The ground should be cleared 

 of all trash and vegetation. A good 

 dressing of manure should be applied 

 and plowed under, and the ground 

 left in that condition until spring. 

 Better results are had by changnig 

 the location of most crops every year. 



TKe Fall Care of June Roses 



A., tl. Goodman, Cayuga, Ontario 



THE fall care of hardy roses is a vital 

 question for the amateur flower 

 lover, and one which he is apt to 

 shirk; yet, the foundation for next sea- 

 son's success must be laid at this time. 

 To obtain perfection in June roses, grow 

 them in the open sunlight and in a clay 

 soil. In November, spade around the 



bushes, working in well rotted-manure ; 

 cut off tips of canes to assist nature in 

 maturing the wood (but do not prune 

 till spring), then bank earth around 

 each plant. When the ground is frozen 

 solid, tie up the hardy varieties with 

 straw. Leave this cover on till the 

 cold winds have ceased in the spring. 



usually the first of April. The half- 

 hardy kinds, such as Margaret Dickson, 

 whose bloom is borne on the top of 

 long stems, are better layered, then 

 covered with straw and boards, care 

 being taken not to smother the plant. 

 Crimson Ramblers may be treated in 

 the same way as the hardy varieties, 

 but for profusion of bloom, old canes 

 must be cut out after they have borne 

 two years. The best results are 

 obtained if all their canes are short- 

 ened to six feet. Dorothy Perkins 

 is best pruned as one would prune a 

 grape vine. 



Outline your garden with rose hedges. 

 Crimson Ramblers are the best and 

 need the least care. If you only 

 wish one hedge, a pretty idea is to start 

 with six Crimson Ramblers, then six 

 Dorothy Perkins, then six Baltimore 

 Belles. These will shade from the 

 darkest red to the palest shade of pink 

 and make a very effective hedge for 

 a garden. 



Preservation of Seeds 



From September on, seeds of trees 

 and shrubs ripen rapidly and those 

 who wish to obtain them for sowing 

 need to watch the ripening so as to 

 secure and preserve them in good 

 condition. Of the various kinds, the 

 greater number can be sown in autumn, 

 all, in fact, excepting the coniferous 

 sorts. On the other hand, it must not 

 be forgotten, that where impracticable 

 or undesirable to sow in autumn seeds 

 can be preserved and sown in spring. 



Taking maples, ash, tuUp, poplar, 

 linden and all similar sorts, to have 

 them do their best they must not be 

 kept in a dry state too long. Maples 

 soon suffer if allowed to become dry; 

 linden and tulip will keep a longer 

 time without moisture. Magnolia seeds 

 soon become worthless if allowed to 

 dry. The safest way is to prepare the 

 seed beds in early October, and then 

 sow all the seeds when they ripen and 

 fall from the tree, A week or two's 

 delay in sowing them does not hurt 

 them, but a longer period is very apt 

 to do so. 



When impossible to sow in the fall, 

 the seeds should be kept in a slightly 

 moist state and in a temperature that 

 is low all winter. It is not essential 

 that they be mixed with soil if the air 

 is moist, but the conditions mentioned 

 are better attained when in soil, and 

 then it is not necessary that the air 

 of the building be damp. It is quite 

 essential that nut seeds be damp all 

 winter. These do just as well sown 

 in spring as in autumn if well preserved 

 in damp material, as they but reqiure 

 to absorb a certain quantity of mois- 

 ture to cause the shells to part. A great 

 deal regarding the care of seeds has 

 to be learned by practice. 



