Bulbs for Spring Flo^vering* 



To secure good results in bulbs 

 for spring llowcring, they should 

 be planted in a well-drained 

 sandy loam. When applying manure, 

 see that it does not come in direct 

 contact with the bulb or decay will 

 result. It is best to prepare the land 

 for bulbs a year in advance. If 

 this cannot be done, use well-rotted 

 manui'c, dug deeply into the soil so that 

 it will be below the bulb. When light 

 soil is not available, the proper texture 

 may be approached by adding sand to 

 heavy soil. 



PI, .ANTING 



It is best to plant bulbs as soon as 



per- 



B. B. Whyte, Ottawa 



when planted in clumps between 

 ennials in a border. 



TULIP CULTURE 



After tulips have bloomed in spring, 

 they ma>' be left in the soil or lifted and 

 heeied-in. The latter practice gives 

 the best results If the bulbs are left, 

 however, the practice should not be 

 followed for more than two or three 

 years in succession. 



There are innumerable varieties of 

 excellent tuhps. The following is a 

 good selection of singles: Joost Van 

 Vondel, white; Cottage Maid, white and 

 pink; Jacht Van Rotterdam, white and 

 violet; Standard Silver, white and red; 



Narcissi, Tulips and Hyacinths in Spring — ^Prepare Now for a Similar Showing 



This illustrates a portion of the bulb borders and clumps in garden of Mr. R. B. Whyte, Ottawa. In the back- 

 ground is a rear view of the residence of Sir Wilfrid Laurier. 



the bulbs can be secured in the spring. 

 By so doing, they will have a chance to 

 become established before freezing. 

 When it is not practicable to plant early, 

 it is necessary to mulch the bed with a 

 heavy dressing of strawy manure. This 

 will prevent the soil beneath being frozen 

 as early in fall as it would be if left hare 

 and it wMU allow the bulbs to make some 

 root-growth before winter. 



The proper depth to plant is deter- 

 mined largely by the size of the bulbs 

 and the character of the soil. Small 

 bulbs, such as crocus, may be planted 

 two or three inches deep. Tuhps are 

 best planted four or five inches deep, 

 and hyacinths and narcissi five to six 

 inches and about the same distance 

 apart. Bulbs may be planted deeper 

 in light soil than in heavy. Cover for 

 winter protection. 



For best effect, avoid planting in a 

 straight, single row. Plant in beds or 

 groups. Bulbs show to good advantage 



* From an address delivered recently before the 

 Toronto Horticultural Society. 



Chrysolora, yellow; Keizer Kroon, yel- 

 low and red; Thomas Moore, orange; 

 Duchess of Parma, orange and red; 

 Proserpine, rosy carmine; Vermillion 

 Brilliant, red; and Vandemeer, violet. 

 An excellent class of late tulips are 

 called the "Mayflowering or Cottage " 

 Among the best of them are: Snowdon, 

 white ; La Panachei, white and red ; 

 Silver Queen, white and rose pink; Sun- 

 set, yellow and red; Parisian Yellow, 

 yellow; La Merveille, orange red; Mac- 

 rospila, red; Elegans, dark cardinal; 

 Gesneriana, crimson scarlet with blue 

 base; Gesneriana rosea, rosy cardinal; 

 The Fawn, reddish fawtj, shading lighter 

 to edge; and Fairy Queen, violet rose 

 with yellow edge. 



Among other classes of single tulips 

 are Byblooms, Bizards, Darwins, Rem- 

 brandts, Parrots and Botanical. The 

 double tuHps also are beautiful. Among 

 the best of the early ones are: Alba 

 maxima, white; Murillo, white and 

 rose ; Couronne D'Or, yellow and orange ; 

 'Helianthus, red and yellow; Imperator 



rubrorum, scarlet; and Purple Crown, 

 purplish red. The best late doubles are: 

 Yellow Rose, yellow; Rose Pompom, 

 cream and rose; Marriage de nia Fille, 

 red and white; Peony Rose, red; 

 Ovenwinnaar, violet; and Admiral Kins- 

 bergen, brownish violet. 



THE NARCISSUS 



In many respects the narcissus is the 

 best of the spring bulbs. It is lasting 

 in its properties. Its gracefulness and 

 dehcacy of color make it very popular. 

 Its planting and treatment is similar to 

 that recommended for tulips. An ex- 

 cellent general list of varieties for 

 amateurs is as follows: Emperor, light 

 yellow; Victoria, early perfumed, yel- 

 low and white; Sir Watkin, yellow; 

 Barri Conspicuus, yellow, with orange 

 scarlet cup ; Frank Miles, yellow ; Leedsi 

 Amabilis, sulphur white; Von Sion, 

 double yellow; Sulphur Phoenix, white 

 with sulphur centre; Monstrosus, very 

 large yellow ; and Poeticus, Omatus and 

 Biflorus in variety. 



HYACINTHS 



Hyacinths are used chiefly for bedding. 

 They should be taken up every year. 

 Among the best white varieties are La 

 Grandesse, Queen Victoria and Mina; 

 pink, Fabiola, Norma, Gigantea and G. 

 a. merveille; blue, Grand Lilas, Czar 

 Peter, La Peyrouse and Grand Maitre; 

 red, General Pellissier, R. Steiger, Lord 

 Macauley and Roi des Beiges; yellow, 

 La Pluc D'Or, La Citronien, King of 

 Yellows and Sonora. 



In addition to the foregoing, there are 

 many early flowering small bulb flowers, 

 such as Bulbicodium vemum, snow- 

 drops, crocus, scillas, chionodoxas, 

 puschkinnias, erythroniums, grape 

 hyacinths, frittillarias and trilliums. 



False Dragon Head 



Roderick Cameron, Queen Victoria Park, 

 Niagara Falls, Ont. 



I grow three varieties of this plant, 

 but I prefer the native one, Physos- 

 tegia Virginica. WTien grown under 

 good cultivation and the right kind of 

 soil and conditions, there is not a better 

 perennial in my large collection. Grow 

 it in a damp, loose, deep soil, and you 

 will be pleased with it. It grows to 

 four feet high and blooms during 

 August and September. Its flowers 

 are a bright pink color. There is a 

 white variety, although not so attrac- 

 tive. It is an excellent plant and 

 grows about two feet high. 



Another variety, Physostegia dentic- 

 ulata, is between the two in color. It 

 is a light pink, and grows about four 

 feet high. It is an excellent variety 

 for cutting blooms for vases. 



