PKOrAGATION. 199 



Propagation. The Cherry is propagated from seed — by budding — 

 by grafting — and occasionally, by pieces of roots. 



By Seed. The seed of the black Mazard is that generally used, 

 and considered best for propagating the Heart and Duke varieties 

 upon, while the Mahaleb is used only for the purpose of creating a 

 dwarf habit. Seeds of the Graffion or Yellow Spanish will occa- 

 sionally reproduce trees bearing fruit similar to the parent ; while 

 seeds of many of the cultivated kinds will not vegetate, there being 

 no germ or seed bud within the stone. The seed should not be per- 

 mitted to get dry, but immediately when gathered, rubbed and washed 

 clean of pulp, and mixed half and half with sand, placed in boxes, of 

 say four inches deep, having holes in the bottom for drainage, and 

 tlien set in the open air, on the north side of a building, clear of di- 

 rect sunlight. The ground should be well drained, and if possible 

 fresh turf; and spaded or plowed in the Fall one foot deep. As soon 

 as the frost is out in the Spring, rake down the ground level, mark 

 out drills six inches wide and one inch deep, sow seed so that it will 

 be about three inches apart, cover with the soil one inch, and add one 

 inch of sand or leaf mold. 



Bu Budding. This is done as described on page 20 ; but in the 

 Cherry, and especially when the buds are a little unripe, it is best in 

 cutting the bud from the scion to take liberally of the wood, thereby 

 preventing its drying as soon as otherwise. The season for budding 

 the Cherry is, when the tree on which you are going to operate is 

 forming its terminal bud, and varies in seasons, as also in the age of 

 the trees ; trees of four or five years old, in sections south of Cincin- 

 nati, being ready by middle of June, while plants transplanted the 

 past Spring will not be ready until early in July. North of this sec- 

 tion line, the season will vary from two to four weeks later. Occa- 

 sionally it will answer to bud in September, as it sometimes happens 

 that a second growth is made about that time. 



By Grafting. This should be performed in all sections south of 

 Cincinnati early in February, and for those north, from the last week 

 in February to middle of March. Saddle grafting is best where both 

 stock and scion are equal in size ; whip or tongue grafting is best 

 where the stock is not over half to three fourths inch diameter; and 

 cleft grafting, wdiere large stocks are to be changed. This last is 

 dangerous, inasmuch as it gives too great a check to the tree ; it is 

 better to graft the small limbs and branches. Side grafting is the 

 mode most advisable for young beginners, and also where the work 

 has been put off a little too late. 



By Roots. The root of the Mazard Cherry, cut into pieces of 

 about four to six inches long, and having the upper end set about 

 one inch under ground early in Spring, will often throw up strong 

 shoots, and where a person is unable to get seedlings, this is the next 



