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OUR QUESTION AND ANSWER DEPARTMENT 



Readers of The Horticulturist are invited to submit Questions on any pKase of Horticultural -worK 



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W^Kite Stra-wberries 



I am sending a few white strawberries, with 

 plants, for examination. About two years ago 

 I found the original plants growing wild, and 

 am now cultivating them. What is your opin- 

 ion of them? — T.A.C., Baltimore, Ont. 



The white strawberry received is a 

 representative of the alpine or perpetual 

 class (Fragaria vesca). The stems are 

 erect and strong, and the leaves are 

 thinner and lighter in color than those 

 of other types. The berries when re- 

 ceived by The Horticulturist were 

 very ripe and soft, but larger in size 

 than is usually seen in wild specimens, 

 due probably to the influence of the two 

 years' cultivation. The seeds of this 

 class are very prominent, not sunken in 

 !he flesh. The samples were too ripe 

 to determine the firmness and quality. 



Cultivated forms of alpine strawber- 

 ries are rarely seen in this country. 

 They are grown extensively in Europe, 

 and the writer has seen them growing to 

 l)erl"ection in vSouth America. Under 

 cultivation they attain above medium 

 size, and the quality is high. They are 

 deserving of more attention in home 

 i;ardens, but are not hkely, in competi- 

 tion with reliable red berries, to prove 

 of commercial value in this country. It 

 would be well, however, for Mr. Chap- 

 man to follow up the work he has 

 already begun. Good cultivation and 

 careful selection of plants when trans- 

 planting will bring about a marked im- 

 l^rovement. 



Stra-wberry Leaf Spot 



I am sending to The Hokticui^turist for 

 ixamination some strawberry leaves that are 

 ■ liseased. What is the matter with them? — 

 Alex. G., Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont. 



The Strawberry leaves are affected 

 with what is commonly called the straw- 

 'jerry leaf spot. This is a fungous dis- 

 ise that is widely distributed, but does 

 ;)mparatively httle injury on planta- 

 ins that are fruited only one year, 

 old patches it does considerable 

 image. When the leaves are badlv 

 seased, the crop of fruit is materially 

 !ected ; the plant is weakened in growth 

 and made almost worthless for the fol 

 lowing season. For badly rusted beds, 

 lieroic measures must be adopted. Soon 

 after the fruit is gathered the beds should 

 be mowed, and the tops covered with 

 straw or the old mulching and the whole 

 burned. For plantations that are not 

 badly affected, the disease may be kept 

 in check by spraying with Pordeaux 

 mixture. The spraying should com- 

 mence in the spring as soon as the leaves 

 unfold, and be repeated iintil the bios 

 som appears. 



Gooseberries and Currants 



Can gooseberries and red currants be shipped 

 successfully to Winnipeg? — F.W.G., Grimsby. 



With ordinary care in harvesting 

 before too ripe, these fruits can safely be 

 shipped long distances. It is advisable, 

 however, to ship red currants in the 

 crate of 24 quart baskets rather than in 

 larger bulk. 



Planting Cedar Hedges 



I planted a cedar hedge last spring, and al- 

 thoiigli most of it has done nicely, a small pro- 

 portion of the trees have died. I proposed re- 

 placing the dead ones with new shrubs this 

 montii, but have been advised that the month 

 of June is the only month in which they can be 

 planted witli assurance of growth. I write to 

 The Horticulturist for advice, and also take 

 this opportunity of congratulating you on the 

 excellence of your splendid magazine. It is 

 worthy of the supjiort of every Canadian. — 

 Mrs. J. G., Smith's FaHs, Ont. 



Cedars can be planted any time be- 

 tween spring and fall. I have planted 

 them in August with good success. May 

 or June, when growth is just starting, is, 

 perhaps, the safest and best season. 

 The important point is to plant them 

 when there is no danger of the roots 

 drying out. The roots of evergreens 

 are more or less resinous ; when exposed 

 to the air this hardens, chokes up the 

 cells, and the trees die from suffocation. 

 When transplanting, keep the roots from 

 drying and thoroughly water and shade 

 for a few days. It is advisable, also, to 

 puddle the roots by dipping them in 

 thick mud ; by so doing, they will stand 

 almost any hardships. The reason that 

 the cedar hedge at Smith's Falls died out 

 is due, probably, to exposure of roots 

 before planting. Without appearing so 

 the trees may have been half dead before 

 they were planted. 



Cedars Near Apple Trees 



The cedar tree is said to be injurious to apple 

 orchards. Please explain. — E.M.C., Picton. 



There is serious objection to the use 

 of red cedar as a wind break for apple 

 orchards, on account of its being one of 

 the two host plants of a fungous disease 

 which produces what are commonly 

 known as "apple rust" on the apple 

 and "cedar apples" on the cedar. 



Troublesome "Wandering' Je-w 



What is the cause of the leaves of Wandering 

 jew turning black when cut from the plant and 

 put in a vase of water? I have several sprigs 

 placed in a vase of water, and the ends of the 

 sprays have begun to turn black and wither. 

 Plenty of water is in the vase, and no sunlight 

 strikes the leaves. — M.C.R, <roronto. 



The sprays mentioned probably have 

 been takeii from a plant growing in 



^03 



dense shade, or in a very high tempera- 

 ture. Using cold water to start these 

 sprays sometimes will cause them to 

 turn black. Cut the ends of the stems 

 off, and remove the black leaves, then 

 place the ends of the stems in water 

 havinga temperature of about 65 degrees, 

 Change the water about once a week. 

 Extreme changes in surrounding con- 

 ditions are usually the cause of the 

 trouble mentioned. Partial shade, heat 

 and moisture are the conditions that 

 suit these plants. — Answered bv W. 

 Hunt, O.A.C., Guelph. 



rio^wers for Aug'ust 



Are there any llower seeds that, sown the 

 first of August, will produce flowers this fall? — 

 C.B.M., Burlington, Ont. 



Flower seeds are uncertain sown as 

 late as August. Much depends on the 

 weather conditions in the fall. The 

 following afe annuals that produce their 

 flowers quickly after sowing, and might 

 give some flowers before frost : sweet 

 alyssimi, calendula, calliopsis, candy- 

 tuft, larkspur, marigold, mignonette, 

 eschscholtzia, gypsophila, balsam, nas- 

 turtium, and Shirley poppy. F^or climb- 

 ers, scarlet rtmners and convolvulus. 

 A few plants of petunias or verbenas 

 planted out would be likely to give far 

 better results than the seeds mentioned. 

 — Answered by Wm. Hunt, O.A.C., 

 Guelph. 



To n.ill HorseradisH 



How can I get rid of a patch of horseradish? 

 — C.A.R., Guelph. 



Plow or dig so as to expose roots to the 

 action of frost in winter. Next spring 

 grow an early hoe crop and cultivate 

 well. Follow this with a cover crop of 

 clover. Plow under the following spring 

 and grow another hoe crop. Cultivate 

 incessantly that season, and you will 

 kill out the horseradish. 



Spinach for Fall So-win^ 



Which is the best variety of spinach to sow 

 in fall for early spring use? — M.M.W., Jordan, 

 Ont. 



The prickly or winter spinach is the 

 best variety for the purpose. Other 

 hardy varieties that may be used are 

 Victoria and Flanders. The seed should 

 be sown before the middle of September. 

 During the autumn the plants will grow 

 and attain fair size, and on the approach 

 of winter they should be jirotectcd with 

 a covering of straw. 



Peach borer should be sought for and 

 destroyed where found. 



