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THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



ting out a new plantation. I/Cave some 

 roots, also, on the surface of the ground 

 or put them in a cold frame to freeze. 

 Later place them in the cellar on the 

 lloor or in a barrel where they will pro- 

 duce tender, juicy stalks for winter use. 

 Watch the November issue of The 

 Horticulturist for an article on 

 subject. 



MUSHROOMS FOR NEW YEAR'S 



Mushroom beds may be made 

 time in fall. Begin preparing the 

 now, making up the bed in about three 

 weeks, which will insure a crop for New 

 Year's. Prepare the compost in a shed. 

 Use fresh horse manure and turn it over 

 every second day for 8 or 1 days, when 

 it should be dry. If difficult to dry, add a 



this 



any 

 soil 



each way. Smooth the bed with a spade 

 and add a thin layer of loam if desired. 

 In a week or 10 days the bed may be 

 sprinkled with water, not much being 

 necessary imtil the crop begins to show. 

 The bed should be kept at a normal 

 temperature of 70 degrees. If it becomes 

 dry, apply tepid water to the dry spots; 

 but do not saturate the bed. Should the 

 heat decline apply a covering of hay or 

 other material to keep up the warmth. 

 Further information on mushrooms soon 

 will appear in the columns of The 

 Horticulturist. Watch for it. 



the flower garden 

 At this season of the year, with the 

 soil in the moist condition it is. the 

 transplanting of herbaceous plants is 



Bay View House and Lawn, Deseronto, Ont. 



little dry loam. Take care that the 

 manure does not bum. 



When the compost is in a suitable 

 condition, prepare the bed in the cellar. 

 The latter should have a minimum tem- 

 perature of SC, and a good, dry bottom. 

 Place a 10-inch plank in the desired posi- 

 tion and fill in with the manure. The 

 bed must be made in successive layers, 

 each being spread thin and thoroughly 

 packed to prevent injury to the spawn 

 from heating. A depth of 12 inches at 

 the back sloping to 10 at the front is suf- 

 ficient. 



It is safe to spawn when the temper- 

 ature does not exceed 90 degrees. Should 

 it go above 100 degrees, the manure may 

 be cooled with water. Break cakes of 

 brick spawn into pieces the size of a hen's 

 egg; and place the same two inches deep 

 in the' bed at intervals of eight inches 



work well done. Such plants become 

 established before winter sets in; and 

 the work done now lessens that which 

 it is usual to do in spring. Keep the 

 border clear of all rubbish that may 

 harbor insects and vermin. 



Be sure and set out some tulip, 

 hyacinth and narcissus bulbs this fall. 

 The earlier it is done the better. Set 

 them three or four inches deep and 

 mulch the ground a little, and they 

 will come through all right and bloom 

 as soon as the snow is off. If you want 

 a bed of them next spring, get a hustle 

 on and plant the bulbs at once. 



Renew the old lily clumps by taking 

 the bulbs or offsets, dividing them and 

 replanting this fall. Do it at once, so 

 that they may become established be- 

 fore freezing weather. While lilies may 

 have partial shade, do not plant them 



under trees. The best efifect and 

 growth may be had by planting amongst 

 low shrubbery or border plants. After 

 the ground is frozen, place a mulch of 

 straw or evergreen boughs over the 

 bulbs, to be gradually removed as 

 spring advances. 



October is the time to plan the ar- 

 rangement of the new flower garden. 

 If you desire formal beds, make them 

 now. Cut out of the sod the desired 

 shape, manure, dig deeply and allow 

 to remain in a rough condition until 

 spring. New informal borders also may 

 be made at this time and in a similar 

 manner. 



CANNAS, dahlias AND FOUR O'CLOCKS 



Before frost has touched their roots, 

 cannas should be dug and placed in 

 the outhouse or shed safe from frost. 

 VV^hen digging allow a small quantity 

 of earth to adhere to the roots. Leave 

 them in the shed for two or three weeks, 

 being careful to prevent them being 

 touched by frost. Then store in a 

 fairly dry cellar where the tempera- 

 ture does not go below 45 degrees, 

 nor become too warm. Should the 

 furnace keep the cellar very hot, pack 

 the roots in dry sand or earth and 

 keep them in the coolest comer. 



Dahlia roots will keep well in a cooler 

 place in winter than canna roots, 35 

 to 40 degrees will suit them. A rather 

 damp cellar is best for dahlias. Pack 

 the roots in sand if the cellar is furnace 

 heated. When diggjing, allow the earth 

 about the roots to adhere. If the 

 ground is wet at the time it is all the 

 better, as it will cling more tenaciously 

 to the roots. When lifted, cut off the 

 tops about six inches above the point 

 where the tubers are attached, and 

 place the clumps in a sunny, airy place 

 during the warm days until thoroughly 

 dried, then store them. The adhering 

 soil protects the neck of the tubers 

 from injury and prevents exposure to 

 the atmosphere. 



Roots of the marvel of Peru, or 

 MirabiUs, will keep over winter very 

 well if dug before being frozen, and 

 treated as recommended for dahlias. 

 These plants are easily grown from 

 seed in the first place, and make very 

 showy border plants. The roots, like 

 dahlia roots, will keep well in a cool, 

 moist cellar. 



succulent plants AND CACTI 



For century plants. Agave, a dry 

 room or light cellar is preferable to 

 store them in in winter, and a rather 

 high temperature, 50 degrees, suits 

 them best. Give them very little water 

 in winter. The lobster cactus, Epi- 

 phyllum, is an exception to this rule, 

 as the winter is the growing period of 

 this early flowering variety of cacti. 

 Avoid keeping century plants in a 

 continuously low temperature near to 

 freezing-point in winter. Too much 



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