45 



have all the canes running in one direc- 

 tion, preferably not facing the prevailing 

 wind. The rows should be ploughed or 

 dug each autumn, and hoed or horse 

 scuffled to keep down the weeds in spring 

 and summer. As with raspberries, plenty 

 of manure, both stable and artificial, is 

 desirable in order to obtain the best 

 results. 



The greatest difficulty in logan culture 

 arises from the mass of young wood 



with soft twine, one cane along each wire. 

 The fruit should be picked before it is 

 quite ripe, and despatched in chip baskets 

 containing not more than 61b. each. 

 Oiled paper should be put at the bottom 

 of the basket. 



The loganberry plant lasts a long time 

 with proper cultivation, and experience 

 appears to show that it is not very sus- 

 ceptible to spring frosts. It has, however, 

 two foes which have recently made their 



Training Logan Canes. 



thrown up in the spring. A number of 

 methods have been tried; possibly the 

 beso is to drive stakes into the ground 

 near each plant, one at each side of the 

 wire fence, and tie the young wood up to 

 these. It is desirable only to leave seven 

 or eight shoots from the base; a larger 

 number than this is unmanageable and 

 not necessary. The young wood should be 

 tied to the wires in the early autumn 



appearance, and in some cases caused 

 considerable damage and anxiety to 

 growers, the Raspberry Beetle (Byturus 

 tomentosus), and also a blotch, presum- 

 ably a fungoid disease, which attacks the 

 cane, for neither of which has an entirely 

 satisfactory remedy been forthcoming. In 

 conclusion, it should be said that the 

 loganberry is a gross feeder, and requires 

 plenty of nourishment and attention. 



