The condition of the plants when distributed, or the size pot in which 

 they were growing, contributed more to their failure than the care 

 which was given them. 



All plants, except one, had some direct sunlight — the one failed. 

 The most successful growers gave their plants all the sun possible during 

 mid-winter and then, as the sun became brighter, they gave their plants 

 partial shade by a lace curtain, placing them away from the window, 

 etc. Three plants were started in north windows but after they failed to 

 do well they were moved to sunny windows. 



Water 



All growers reported that gloxinia plants needed a lot of water, es- 

 pecially when growing actively. Many of the successful growers soaked 

 their plants thoroughly at each watering. Some kept their plant sitting 

 in a deep saucer and rilled the saucer with water as the plant needed it. 

 Lack of water or neglect in watering was the cause for flower buds blast- 

 ing in several instances. There were no known cases of overwatering 

 although this is possible, especially if the plant is allowed to stand in wa- 

 ter continuously. 



Although various containers were used, porous pots seem to be the 

 most desirable. They may be set in deep saucers or bowls when proper 

 watering is easily done. Glazed pots cut down water loss and cause 

 plants to require water less frequently, but it is more difficult to tell when 

 the plants need water. 



Temperature 



Night temperatures varied from 50° to above 70° F. There is little 

 chance of success with gloxinias if room temperature is 70° or above day 

 and night. From 55° -65° F is about the optimum range. 



Feeding 



Only five growers fed their plants. Plants that were fed regularly 

 responded with more flowers and a heavier tuber at the end of the 

 growth period. Feeding will not take the place of a good soil, especially 

 one with a good physical condition. 



Insects 



Thrips were the most troublesome insects on these gloxinia plants 

 although not the only ones that attacked them. Aphids, mealybugs, and 

 mites may be troublesome. Damage from thrips was much more serious 

 at warmer temperature. Most of the failures were caused in part by 

 thrips injury. 



Thrips injury on gloxinia (Fig. 6 A) has a rusty appearance under 

 the leaves and a flecking of lighter areas on the upper surfaces. Leaves 

 may curl slightly or become deformed and in severe cases the flower buds 

 blast and fail to open. As the leaves are so brittle they cannot be washed, 

 insecticides used as sprays or dips must be used. (See section on insect 

 control for suitable sprays.) 



Suggested care when tubers are dormant 



Many growers lost the tubers after their plants stopped flowering. 

 In most cases, the tubers that died were placed in the basement and neg- 

 lected. Usually, about two or more months of rest will be needed be- 

 fore the gloxinia is ready to grow again. 



Forty 



