* WILLOW HEDGES. 107 



to grow and gain strength and stiffness, as it is in this way that they make a barrier, 

 and not with closeness and thorns, as is the case with some other plants. I have seen 

 trees that were set five or six inches apart in the row, and in rows four feet apart, in- 

 tended for shelter from winds, many of the trees not being more than two or three 

 inches in diameter after a lapse of eight years, while other cuttings planted at the same 

 time, with plenty of room, are more than a foot in diameter. 



5. The planting should be as early as the ground can be got in good order. I have 

 never planted in the fall, T)ut, reasoning from analogy, I see no reason why they might 

 not be planted then as well as other cuttings, if protected. 



6. If the cuttings are one or more inches m diameter, and three or four feet in length, 

 which is better than if larger, they may be firmly set twelve or fifteen inches in depth. 

 The setting may be done with a crowbar, by ditching or by driving. Short cuttings 

 may be set so that the top is lightly covered with fine soil, which prevents their dry- 

 ing out, and confines the growth to a single bud. 



Eoiv to cultivate. — No other crop will pay better for good care. A proper degree of 

 moisture should be maiutained, as of the utmost importance. Frequent stirring of the 

 soil is of great benefit in this respect, and also tends to keep out weeds and other 

 growth that sap their moisture. Mulching for three or four feet on each side 

 of the row seems to perform these offices quite well, and when well done saves all 

 other labor, and is for that reason the safest course in the hands of a careless or too 

 busy man. I have seen cuttings planted on the same day, and with the same soil and 

 treatment in all respects, except that part were mulched and part were not, aud where 

 the former succeeded well, the latter utterly failed. I have seen the cuttings when 

 not mulched, make a nice start, but perish in the heat and drought of summer. I have 

 seen large cuttings, driven into an unbroken prairie-sod, make a fine growth when a 

 sufficient mulch was applied to subdue the native grass. But in this manner of plant- 

 ing, the mulch should be heavy, and should extend at least five or six feet on each 

 side of the rows to give the plants a fair chance. It would be better, within a year or 

 two thereafter, also to break a greater width outside of the mulch, as the sod would in- 

 terfere with the growth of the trees, as soon as the roots should reach that distance. 

 Straw, hay, stalks, manure, saw-dust, anything that will mechanically serve the pur- 

 pose of mulch, will answer, but manure would stimulate the growth very satisfac- 

 torily. * * » 



Cutting back may be resorted to in cases where there has been a poor stand, but not 

 where the plants stand within twelve or fifteen feet of each other. The trees should 

 not be plashed down or woven together, but should be stimulated to make a strong, 

 upright growth. Late planting i-» even worse than close planting. This is especially 

 true if the buds have started before the cuttings were made, or if they have been 

 allowed to dry before setting. While young and tender, the shoots must be guarded 

 from live stock. Calves will eat the tender shoots, and keep them shorn so close as to 

 kill out the strongest plantings while young. Shallow planting, thin soil, standing 

 water on the surface, grass and weeds to smother the plants, are all to be avoided or 

 remedied. In short, avoid everything that interferes with a good stand and a vigorous 

 growth, and you will never have cause to call the white willow a humbug. » » » 



The amount of fuel that may be cut from a rod of fence, takiug all above the height 

 of three feet, is much greater than most persons would think, and its reproduction on 

 the same spot, without further labor, makes it a crop of no mean value on the open 

 prairie. * * * 



Objections answered. — It is urged against the willow hedge, thab it occupies too much 

 space, shading and damaging crops near it by sapping moisture from the adjacent 

 grounds. It must be admitted that for one or two rods on each side of the row, after 

 it has made a few years' growth, cultivated crops will be affected by it, and that corn 

 will not produce a'fuU crop within say thirty feet of the trees. Granting this, still I 

 have never found a farmer who did not claim that the protection of the ground for ten 

 or twenty rods further did not cause such increase as to more than counterbalance the 

 other effects. Again, the ground occupied is paid for over and again by the permanent 

 fence obtained, and by the timber that may be taken from it through an iudefluite 

 time. Other objections, such as ragged rows of trees, sickly growth, &c., are answered 

 above by the showing that they may be, and should be, guarded against. 



In answer to questions the above writer replied, giving some further 

 information about the willow as a fence and screen. He thought six 

 years would be sufficient to grow a fence strong enough, without weav- 

 ing in or plashing, to turn stock. The willow was injured by two kinds 

 of worms, but recovered without apparent damage. 



In this connection it may be proper to offer some facts concerning the 

 wdllow as a timber-tree, and as a plant useful for cultivation for various 

 uses in the arts. Of course it should not displace more valuable kinds, 

 but it may be grown where these might not succeed. 



