AS COMMISSIONER TO SANTO DOMINGO- 1871 497 



Another day brought us to Vega, noted as the point 

 where Columbus reared his standard above the wonderful 

 interior valley of the island ; and there we were welcomed, 

 as usual, by the officials, and, among them, by a tall, ascetic- 

 looking priest who spoke French. Returning his call next 

 day, I was shown into his presence in a room utterly bare 

 of all ornament save a large and beautiful photograph of 

 the Cathedral of Tours. It had happened to me, just after 

 my college days, to travel on foot through a large part of 

 northern, western, and middle France, especially interest- 

 ing myself in cathedral architecture ; and as my eye caught 

 this photograph I said, l i Father, what a beautiful picture 

 you have of the Church of St. Gatien!" The countenance 

 of the priest, who had at first received me very ceremoni- 

 ously and coldly, was instantly changed ; he looked at me 

 for a moment, and then threw his arms about me. It was 

 pathetic: of all who had ever entered his door I was 

 probably the only one who had recognized the picture of 

 the cathedral where he had been ordained ; and, above all, 

 by a curious inspiration which I cannot to this hour ac- 

 count for, I had recognized it by the name of the saint to 

 whom it is dedicated. Why I did not speak of it simply 

 as the Cathedral of Tours I know not ; how I came to re- 

 member that it was dedicated to St. Gatien I know not; 

 but this fact evidently loosened the cords of the father's 

 heart, and during my stay at Vega he was devoted to me ; 

 giving me information of the greatest value regarding 

 the people, their habits, their diseases, and the like, much 

 of which, up to that moment, the commission and its sub- 

 ordinates had vainly endeavored to secure. 



And here I recall one thing which struck me as signifi- 

 cant. This ascetic French priest was very severe in con- 

 demnation of the old Spanish priesthood of the island. 

 When I asked him regarding the morals of the people he 

 answered, "How can you expect good morals in them 

 when their pastors set such bad examples? 1 ' It was 

 evident that the church authorities at Rome were of his 

 opinion; for in nearly every town I found not only a 



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