564 IN THE DIPLOMATIC SERVICE-VI 



too quiet. What he wanted was evidently something in 

 the big, melodramatic style. I said nothing; but meeting 

 me a few days afterward, he said, 'Why don't you send 

 me my picture I ' ' No, ' I said ; ' Serene Highness, that pic- 

 ture is mine. ' ' No, said he ; ' you painted it for me ; it is 

 mine. ' ' No, ' said I , ' I shall keep it. ' His Highness shall 

 never have it." 



My principal recreation was in excursions to historical 

 places. Old studies of German history had stimulated a 

 taste for them, and it was a delight to leave Berlin on 

 Saturday and stay in one of these towns over Sunday. 

 Frequently my guide was Frederick Kapp, a thoughtful 

 historian and one of the most charming of men. 



A longer pilgrimage was made to the mystery-play at 

 Oberammergau. There was an immense crowd; and, as 

 usual, those in the open, in front of our box, were drenched 

 with rain, as indeed were many of the players on the 

 stage. I had "come to scoff, but remained to pray." 

 There was one scene where I had expected a laugh 

 namely, where Jonah walks up out of the whale's belly. 

 But when it arrived we all remained solemn. It was 

 really impressive. We sat there from nine in the morn- 

 ing until half-past twelve, and then from half-past one 

 until about half-past four, under a spell which ban- 

 ished fatigue. The main point was that the actors be- 

 lieved in what they represented; there was nothing in it 

 like that vague, wearisome exhibition of "religiosity" 

 which, in spite of its wonderful overture, gave me, some 

 years afterward, a painful disenchantment the "Parsi- 

 fal" atBayreuth. 



At the close of the Passion Play, I sought out some of 

 the principal actors, and found them kindly and interest- 

 ing. To the Christus I gave a commission for a carved 

 picture-frame, and this he afterward executed beautifully. 

 With the Judas, who was by far the best actor in the whole 

 performance, I became still better acquainted. Visiting 

 his workshop, after ordering of him two carved statuettes I 

 said to him : ' ' You certainly ought to have a double salary, 



