56 FRUITS AND VEGETABl ES UNDER GLASS 



at the next leaf, and so on. Tlie leading slioot sliould not be so treated when 

 needed for the purpose of extending the length of the rod, but it should be allowed 

 to grow until it begins to crowd into other foliage; then it will be necessary 

 to pinch it and also to stop the lateral growths. Much pinching as the Grapes 

 begin to color is not advisable, this being one of the most critical periods in 

 their culture; the least check at this stage may be productive of unfinished fruit 

 and a deficiency of color. Fortunately, just about this period, the vines do 

 not as a rule make much surplus young growth. If the laterals are gone over 

 immediately before they begin to color it will carry them until the coloring is 

 complete. Then again, some varieties arc liable to produce split berries at this 

 time if a few laterals are allowed to remain of a variety which are subject to this 

 trouble. Madresfield Court, for example, must be treated very carefully at 

 this juncture or there will be split berries, and this practically means ruination 

 to the bunch, as all the split berries must be cut out. 



SETTING THE FRUIT 



In regard to setting the fruit, the general method of treating Grapes under 

 glass here is very similar to that practiced in other countries and climates. But 

 we have to make some allowance for our dry atmosphere as against a more moist, 

 humid climate. I remember growing Grapes in a very moist climate, where 

 little or no water was allowed on the border during the flowering period of the 

 vines. But it is different here, and we can secure a better set by damping down 

 the house lightly once every bright day, even the Muscat house, provided the 

 atmosphere is dry toward night. In comparing the practice of Grape culture 

 in the eastern United States with that of other countries, I have maintained 

 for many years that we must watch our conditions here more closely, for the 

 simple reason that generally no fire heat is used after the first week in June, 

 our temperatures after that date being too high to require artificial heat. So, 

 as I have said before, we cannot close up the same as with fire heat, on account 

 of the danger of mildew. As soon as the fire heat is dispensed with, about an 

 inch of air should be left on at all times. Or, before the fires are shut down, 

 leave a crack of air on to accustom the vines to the air treatment. While Grapes 

 like a humid atmosphere, the condensation is too great when the house is closed 

 up tight with no fire heat. 



Some varieties will set much more readily than others. It is discouraging, 

 to say the least, after the Grapes have passed their blooming period, to see 

 certain varieties swell away uneven, which will, in this case, mean seedless 

 berries to a certain extent, and this may become a serious matter when there 

 are not enough perfectly fertilized berries to fill out the bunch. Seedless berries 

 at their best are small in size and they are liable to shrivel up or fall ofi', so 

 they are not worth counting on at all. 



Weather conditions are an important factor at the llowering period. We 

 are all anxious to have bright sunshine, or at least some sunny weather while 

 the vines are in blossom, even if it lasts only from ten to twelve o'clock in the 

 morning, thus allowing the pollen to distribute itself. Then; must also be a 



