GRAPE VINES CULTIVATED IN POTS 89 



full grown, gradually give more air and less moisture until toward Fall, at 

 which time air should be admitted freely both night and day, and they 

 should receive considerably less water at the roots, although the latter should 

 not suffer from lack of it. The temperature of the house will count as much as 

 anything. Maintain a dry, bracing atmosphere when ripening the wood. 



Fruiting canes which it has taken two years to produce must be started mto 

 growth with a fairly low temperature, like that recommended for permanent 

 vines. If they are started at too high a temperature, they are apt to come 

 away weak. Give them time and they will more than repay for it later. Attend 

 to the repotting when needed, but do not pot too late in the season, for it is much 

 better to have them well rooted when they are finishing up their growth. They 

 will not need repotting when started again for fruiting. Keep room for top 

 dressing. During their resting period they can be pruned and the canes shortened 

 when necessary. If the canes are strong and thoroughly ripened wood, eight 

 feet will be none too much, but if they are weak, six feet is better. 



The pot vine finds its place in fruiting and ripening, especially for early 

 work. If Grapes are desired in April, those in the permanent house would have 

 to be forced more than is good for them, and even then it is a question if ripe 

 fruit can be obtained by the first of May, whereas with pot vines there is no 

 difficulty in having ripe Grapes by the middle of April. Sometimes a couple 

 of weeks will count a great deal, where money is no object, providing that the 

 results are forthcoming. 



The varieties best adapted for pot work are Black Hamburg, Foster's 

 Seedling, Royal Muscadine, and Black Alicante. The last named, while having 

 all the free setting qualities and being a strong, robust grower, takes a much 

 longer season to ripen its fruit, and then it is of poor quality; so it may be omitted 

 if early fruit is the object. I have seen fairly good Madresfield Court Grapes 

 grown under this treatment. 



Pot Grape vines for fruiting may be started toward the end of November, 

 provided they have been prepared for this early start by having the vines ripened 

 up some time in advance, as all fruit must have a period of rest between crops. 

 In order to obtain the best results, bring them along gradually, at first in a 

 temperature of 45° to 50° by night with an increase of 10° or 15 during the 

 day, according to the weather. Then gradually raise the temperature as the 

 buds begin to swell, or use the treatment recommended for permanent vines, 

 as to temperature, atmosphere and airing. 



When the pot vines arc first brought into heat, they should receive one 

 good watering, and no more until it is absolutely necessary, for as there is no 

 foliage to draw the moisture, watering at the roots must be done with judg- 

 ment in the beginning. Keep them on the dry side until they have started 

 into growth; as the foliage gets more plentiful, increase the moisture, and from 

 that period until fully ripe they should not suffer for lack of water. If a vine 

 flags for want of moisture at the roots, give it a good soaking; the foliage will 

 revive and look bright and happy again, within a few hours. But if this should 

 occur often, the crop would be a disappointing one as to finish, and some of 

 the stems would probably shrivel up or shank. This would take all the pleasure 



