,10 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



TREATMENT OF TREES AFTER FRUIT IS GATHERED 



Success or failure depends to a great extent on the treatment which the 

 trees receive after the fruit is gathered. The fruithouse is naturally more 

 interesting while the fruit is developing. But we should remember that the 

 fruit buds will continue to develop as long as the foliage remains on the trees, 

 and if we neglect those buds at this stage there will be a serious setback for the 

 following season's crop. Not that a great amount of time and labor need be 

 put on the trees. Leave on all the air possible from this time on, except in 

 case of wind storms or heavy rains, when the ventilators should be lowered 

 enough to shed the water or to guard against the gusts of wind. 



During three hot months following the gathering of the crop in May and 

 June there wall be rapid evaporation, with full ventilation both top and bottom. 

 Then the border will occasionally dry out quickly. While the trees should 

 not be saturated at this time, yet they should not suffer for want of moisture 

 at their roots so long as they are carrying their green foliage. When watering 

 give a thorough soaking, otherwise there may be a moist surface with a dry 

 bottom. This is a condition very unfavorable for the health and vigor of the 

 fruit trees, and is one of the chief causes of the dropping of the buds in the 

 following Spring. Perfectly developed buds will not drop to any extent, unless 

 they are unreasonably rushed along with artificial heat when they are started 

 up early in the season. However, too much water is as bad as not enough; for 

 with an inside border an over-supply of water will cause souring of the soil, 

 especially after the trees have made the bulk of their growth. I emphasize 

 the danger of neglect at this period of the tree's life, for if a tree does not 

 get the proper treatment now, it will not do its best work in the season to follow. 



Toward the Fall, when the trees have completed their growth and the wood 

 is fairly well ripened, less water is required. The border is now apt to crack; 

 this may be prevented by keeping the surface raked over, or a light mulch may 

 be applied, as a cracked border tends to break the fine working roots, which 

 are the most essential for the tree. 



Spraying the foliage is also important at this time, otherwise red spider 

 will make rapid headway. The trees can be sprayed to good advantage twice 

 a day, in the morning and at night. Bear in mind that with indoor fruit the 

 trees are depending wholly on you for their sustenance, especially when there 

 is only an inside border. This border is all right, particularly for forcing, but 

 the supply of moisture at the roots calls for close attention. With old estab- 

 lished trees, which are matted with roots, it is occasionally difficult to get the 

 water to soak in thoroughly around the base. In this case it is best to turn 

 on the hose, letting the water run very slowly for about an hour, or until you are 

 satisfied that it has penetrated through. This slow process of watering is effec- 

 tive on any dry spot, and does not call for constant watching of the hose. 



When a heavy crop has been taken from the trees, a light feed will be of 

 benefit. But this depends on the condition of the trees. If they are unusually 

 vigorous, it may hurt them; but trees that have no tendency to rankness, with 

 the border full of roots, may be fed once or twice to good advantage. A light 



