POT FRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES 13^ 



50 by night with a rise of 10 or 15 by day will be agreeable. The main object 

 is to get as nearly as possible to Nature's temperatures. As the fruit advances, 

 the heat may also be increased, until 55° or 60° by night may be maintained, 

 increasing that of the day accordingly. This is sufficient for the artificial heat. 

 As soon as the outside thermometer registers above 60°, never close the ven- 

 tilators down tight. It is much better to leave a couple of inches of air on. 

 Then as the Summer temperature increases, or when the thermometer no longer 

 falls below 65 at night outside, considerable ventilation can be kept on, for 

 orchardhouse fruit delights in an abundance of fresh air, provided that the tem- 

 perature does not fluctuate too much. Herein lies the secret of success in pro- 

 ducing perfectly developed fruit. We have in our hands the means of keeping 

 a fairly even temperature. The house, though covered with glass, will never 

 become too hot, if there is plenty of ventilation, even in extremely hot weather. 

 The great advantage of having this fruit under glass is that it is protected against 

 severe storms, and when a cold spell comes along, as happens occasionalij' 

 even during the Summer months, the ventilation may be reduced some, which 

 will counteract the outside conditions. By thus regulating the temperature we 

 can produce fruit in the orchardhouse which is far superior to that grown out- 

 side. But grow your pot fruit in a close, humid atmosphere, and you will pro- 

 duce a poor quality, with thin and puny foliage, ready to catch the first disease 

 that comes along. While I am a great believer in plenty of fresh air, I do not 

 wish to be misunderstood on this important point. It would be a serious mis- 

 take to admit fresh air regardless of the temperature. There is nothing worse 

 for the trees than a cold, cutting wind. Keep as even a temperature as possible, 

 and avoid, above all, too much coddling. Then you will get fine flavor and 

 excellent color. 



As to watering, I ha\e always found that a man proficient in the art of 

 watering is a most valuable help in greenhouse work. No matter how care- 

 fully the potting material has been selected, or the potting may have been done, 

 careless watering will ruin the best of preliminary work. This holds good 

 especially as regards pot fruit. If a plant is watered to the extent of souring 

 the soil, the injurious effect is difficult to remedy. The best plan to follow in 

 watering a tree is, give a thorough watering so as to penetrate through every 

 particle of the soil in the tub or pot, then no more until necessary. It is im- 

 possible to give definite rules here, as some soils dry out much faster than others. 

 The experienced grower knows the importance of proper watering, which re- 

 quires thought and good judgment. Fruit trees will take a liberal supply of 

 water when in full or active growth; but be careful when first starting up the 

 trees, for at that stage the roots are practically dormant and too much water 

 will injure them. There is no foliage to draw the surplus moisture, nor is there 

 much root action. When first turning on the heat, it would be well to give 

 the trees one good watering and then no more until absolutely necessary, or 

 in other words, keep them on the dry side until growth begins and the root 

 action is more lively. Increase the amount of water as the growth and the 

 foliage increase, but never sour the soil. Overwatering will cause the roots 

 to decay, and you will have a sickly lot of trees. 



