POT FRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES 147 



prong one-quarter to one-half an inch in diameter, with tiie end a bit pointed. 

 With this an inch or so of the old soil may be removed without breaking the 

 roots, leaving a network of fibrous roots around the ball in condition to work 

 their way into the potting material after repotting. 



Fruit trees may be seen growing luxuriantly in tiie open field or orchard, 

 producing an abundance of fruit in an apparently sandy soil, particularly Peaches 

 and Nectarines. But to use a sandy soil for fruit in the orchardhouse, where 

 the trees are confined to small root space, is the first step toward inviting failure. 



Nor would it be well to go to the other extreme and use a iieavy clay soil. While 

 it may be impossible to secure in every instance just the right kind of soil, the 

 best obtainable should be used for the purpose. The ideal soil is a good, rich, 

 fibrous loam, such as has been laid down in pastures for some years — soil with 

 good body to it, but not of a sticky, clayey nature. 



It is best to prepare the soil three or four months in advance. If the sod 

 land is available, it may be plowed or dug three or four inches thick, and if it is 

 full of fibre it may be stacked into a compost heap, adding one load of good, 

 rich farmyard manure to every three loads of soil. Some writers recommend 

 the addition of a small quantity of old mortar, but this is not necessary if soil of 

 the proper texture is selected. It is not advisable to depend on the mortar. 



