,48 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



as there are now cliflerent compositions used in plastering. While the sod 

 should have body or lasting qualities to it, it must also be of such a nature as 

 to allow water to pass through freely. As a guide, I have found that soil which 

 will grow Roses and Carnations satisfactorily will also grow orchardhouse fruit. 

 A week before retubbing the trees, chop down the compost and turn it over, 

 to incorporate the manure thoroughly with the soil. As heavy rains in the Fall 

 may occasionally interfere with the work, it is well to put the potting material 

 under shelter, adding a fair sprinkling of ground bone and hardwood ashes. 

 This will be all that is needed. I am not in favor of making the compost over- 

 rich, but prefer to give surface feed when the trees are in active growth. I 

 would use the soil in a fairly coarse form, as it then does not sour so easily, and 

 the roots will be more lively in a coarse compost. 



Drainage is all important. It is not always a question as to how much 

 drainage shall be put into the bottom of a tub or pot, but rather how best to 

 prevent the fine soil from percolating through. Whether there is one or two 

 inches of drainage in the bottom, it should be kept free from fine soil. A thin 

 layer of sod will answer the purpose; or a layer of half rotten manure or any 

 thing of that kind will stay the soil and prevent the clogging of the drainage. 



In retubbing it is essential to firm the soil thoroughly around the roots, 

 adding a small quantity at a time to make sure that it is worked evenly around 

 the roots. Above all, guard against too large a shift. I know that it is much 

 easier to repot by giving a liberal shift than a moderate one. Deep potting is 

 also a serious error; the depth should be sufficient to just cover the surface roots. 

 Use a suitable potting stick or rammer about one-half inch thick and two or 

 three inches wide, long enough to reach the bottom of the pot. The soil must 

 be made as firm at the bottom as at the top. When the potting is done, the 

 trees may get one good watering. Let them remain outdoors. I prefer, in 

 fact, to leave them out as long as possible, or until severe freezing sets in. 

 Ten or fifteen degrees of frost will do no harm. It is natural for fruit trees to 

 have frost, and a certain amount is beneficial. But in the case of potted trees, 

 the pots must be buried in soil to prevent the frost from destroying the pots. 

 I have occasionally left the trees outside until the end of December, with the 

 result that when they were started every bud came away perfect, with extra 

 strong blossoms. In Europe the trees are not allowed much frost; but con- 

 ditions are different here. Toward Fall the wood of our trees is extra ripe, so 

 that a few degrees of frost will not affect the buds. Try the experiment of 

 taking in one half of your trees and leaving the other iialf outside as recom- 

 mended, and I am sure that ever afterward you will allow your trees to get a 

 certain amount of freezing. 



The trees will not need mucli pruning if they lia\c received good atten- 

 tion during their season of growth in the way of systematic pinching or thin- 

 ning away any crowded branches. Still, there must be some Winter pruning, 

 which may be done any time after the wood is ripened. Do not use pruning 

 shears on the trees. While much work can be accomplished with them, yet 

 the man who takes a genuine pride in his trees will always use the keen-edged 

 pruning knife. 



