STRAWBERRIES AS POT FRUIT 187 



this method is undoubtedly tlie best. This is no theory of mine; 1 am speaking 

 from practical experience. Tiie plants will make a quick growth witii strong 

 crowns. 



Perfect drainage is necessary when placing the plants in the fruiting pots. 

 Strawberries need an abundance of water when they are developing their crowns 

 and again when they are being forced. The surplus water must have a free 

 outlet. If a plant is not looking happy, clogged drainage w-ill generally be 

 found to be the cause. I place about one inch of drainage in a si.\-inch pot, 

 putting a fairly large crock in the bottom, with a sprinkling of soot, to prevent 

 worms from working their way through and ruining the soil; the soot will also 

 benefit the plants. The soil may be further improved by a light application 

 of a fertilizer, especially at the last shift. But do this sparingly, for when the 

 plants are rooted and more food seems necessary, it is an easy matter to give a 

 watering w'ith Clay's manure (in the proportion of a small handful to three 

 gallons of water) or with Bon Arbor; either of these will stimulate the growth of 

 the foliage, which should have good substance and look dark and healthy. Thom- 

 son's manure is also excellent for building up a good growth; it should be mixed 

 with the compost, about three or four pounds to a good wheelbarrow load, 

 for the final potting, while about half the quantity should be used when repot- 

 ting from small pots in the four-inch size. Or take less of Thomson's and add 

 a small sprinkling of wood ashes, soot and bone meal, a mixture that will pro- 

 duce a steady, uniform growth. Bone meal is excellent because of its lasting 

 qualities. The quantity to apply of course depends on conditions, and each 

 grower must consult the needs of his plants. A weak plant takes less than a 

 strong one. The nature of the soil must also be taken into account. But the 

 quantities I have mentioned are on the safe side. 



The condition of the soil must also be noted. The compost should be 

 moist enough to firm well, without baking. If it is in the proper friable con- 

 dition there is not much danger of potting too firmly. First put some suitable 

 material over the drainage, to prevent the finer soil from percolating through, 

 as this would eventually clog up, in the final potting. Broken pieces of sod 

 are best for this purpose, as it keeps the soil above in place, and benefits the roots 

 as they strike through. 



When the plants are in their fruiting pots, the best location for them is 

 where they are sheltered from the north-east winds and receive the full sun from 

 morning until night. They may stand pot to pot until the foliage begins to 

 crowd, when they must be given more space; they should now be set on a bed 

 of ashes, which is a preventive against worms. I do not approve of plung- 

 ing the pots while the plants are growing, for in a prolonged wet spell they will 

 not dry out. Although they may become dry oftener than when plunged in 

 ashes or any other open material, yet this will not hurt them, but will rather 

 •do them good, so long as they do not suffer from want of moisture; they can be 

 easily watered with the hose. Proper watering is one of the fundamental prin- 

 ciples in the treatment of all plant life. The successful grower is the man who 

 has thoroughly learned this art — when to give and when to withhold; good 

 root action depends on this, and without such action we face defeat. With 



