WATERING AND FEEDING 



Better results will be obtained through the Winter by keeping the plants 

 slightly on the dry side. The best plan to follow is to give a thorough watering 

 when needed and no more until absolutely necessary. The Tomato benches 

 will often be dry on the surface, but so long as the foliage stands out boldly and 

 seemingly full of sap, we can rest assured the plants are not suffering for want 

 of moisture. It would, however, be a serious error to allow them to lack mois- 

 ture at the roots. I also believe in growing them in a fairly dry, bracing atmos- 

 phere, as there is not much insect life to bother the vines, except white fly, which 

 can be easily eradicated with hydrocyanic acid gas. Tomato vines do not need 

 spraying from the time they' are planted until through fruiting; then the 

 vines are pulled out and replaced wdth young stock if necessary. 



The feeding will depend on the weight of the fruit on the \ines. With seed 

 sown early in August, when everything has gone well there should be a heav\ 

 crop of fruit by the end of October or early in November — fruit that will ripen 

 through December and January, and perhaps February. Apply food when there 

 is a good set of young fruit on the vines; but it is far better to feed light and often 

 than to give too much at one time. Tomato roots are easily damaged, but 

 when they get accustomed to feeding, the strength of the application can be 

 gradually increased. The main food should, however, be given for fruit develop- 

 ment and firming up the wood. Potash and phosphoric acid or a good grade 

 of Peruvian guano will afford good stimulation. But remember that the true 

 Peruvian guano is powerful and should be used sparingly. In many cases a 

 change of food is better than use of the same material time after time. Even a 

 watering with liquid manure from the farm once or twice will not prove amiss. 

 Feeding depends largely on conditions. If the plants are in any way soft, 

 it would be a mistake to use liquid manure; bonemeal is far better, or anything 

 of that nature which will firm the growth, and at the same time assist the develop- 

 ment and increase the weight of the fruit. Wonderful results may be obtained 

 by systematic feeding at the proper time. The weather must also be consulted. 

 Feeding is of no advantage in a long spell of dark, cloudy days, for it will then 

 encourage too rank a growth, and this must be a\oided. Many growers err 

 more or less, at times, in overfeeding, and great harm may be thus done. I 

 have learnt from many years of experience that it is better to feed light and 

 often. Top dressing seems to put new life and energ\' into the vines. Room 

 should be left for about an inch of new soil, to be applied after the vines have a 

 liberal set of fruit. This will assist the development and encourage root action, 

 especially if a seven-inch pot full of Ichthemic guano per wheelbarrow load 

 of soil is added, with a sprinkling of bonemeal. 



TEMPERATURES AND AIRING 



Proper regulation of temperature and airing may seem a simple matter, 

 and such it is to the skilled grower, but carelessness in these points will coun- 

 teract all otherwise good work. The Tomato vine, as I have said, must make a 



