FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XXXVIII 



ASPARAGUS 



ASPARAGUS forces as readily as Rhubarb, and the operation is equally 

 simple. While it is probably not forced to any great extent, yet it is 

 most acceptable during the Winter. It would be folly to rely on old, 

 e.xhausted beds and expect them to produce satisfactory results, for the best we 

 could get out of them would be a quantity of small, spindly shoots. The mode 

 of culture generally adopted in private establishments with a system for Winter 

 vegetables, is as follows: Before hard freezing sets in in late Fall, the number of 

 crowns necessary are lifted, selecting good, thrifty, robust roots, preferably not 

 over three or four years old, for older crowns are difficult to remove on account 

 of their tangled mass of roots. They must be lifted carefully, with as much soil 

 as possible adhering to the roots. For Asparagus at Christmas they should be 

 brought into heat three weeks in advance. It is best to put them in a position 

 where they receive a certain amount of light, perhaps under a greenhouse bench 

 with a temperature of about 60°. Place the roots close together, run a four- 

 inch board along the sides and put on light soil, filling in all the hollow spaces 

 with enough to cover the crowns two or three inches; give a good watering to 

 settle the soil well around the roots. The returns will be quick, and if the batch 

 is carefully handled, it will last quite a while. Where a supply is to be kept up, 

 another batch must be brought in within three or four weeks. Plants that are 

 dug up for forcing may remain out in the open and be brought into heat as needed. 

 Pile them up and cover the roots with soil and leaves or light manure on the out- 

 side, according to the weather. Th.is method will give free access to the roots 

 at all times. In any case, the roots must be protected or covered so as to keep 

 in the moisture. 



Excellent Asparagus may also be brought along in frames, especially if there 

 are hot water pipes. Even a hotbed of manure will answer, otherwise the soil 

 will be cold and progress slow. Bottom heat of 60° to 70° will bring it along 

 nicely. At the same time, it is not well to depend entirely on the hotbed; there 

 should be some artificial heat in reserve. When the roots are dug up for forcing, 

 they get a considerable check, even though they be lifted carefully, and the shoots 

 will not be equal in quality to those of undisturbed roots. It is, moreover, a 

 sacrifice to a certain extent, for the crowns arc useless after having been forced; 

 but there are times wlicn sacrifices are not to be considered so long as certain 

 results are obtained. 



