BRIGHT ON GRAPE CULTURE, 35 



PLANTING, PRUNING AND TRAINING. 



Take good, strong, two-year old plants, set in rows 

 six or eight feet apart, and two feet apart in the rows. 

 Set in a slanting direction, about four inches under the 

 surface of the earth, close up to the young wood of the 

 last year's growth, or bury two inches of the young 

 wood, and cut down to two eyes. 



When the vine breaks, select the strongest of the two 

 eyes, giving the preference to the one nearest the ground, 

 and remove the other bud, leading up only one cane. 

 Tie. perpendicularly on the trellis, and pinch in when 

 it reaches the top wire or bar, say four or five feet from 

 the surface of the ground. The laterals will now begin 

 to grow. Stop all laterals back to one joint, and con- 

 tinue to stop in the same way till the middle of August, 

 leaving one new leaf on each joint every time. If the 

 vine grows very luxuriantly, the laterals may be allowed 

 to extend to two or three joints, to prevent the main 

 buds from bursting, as it is well known that if the main 

 buds be destroyed, the fruit which would otherwise 

 be produced next season, will be lost. After the middle 

 of August, the vine may be allowed to grow without 

 further care or stopping. 



As soon as the leaves fall, cut back every other cane 

 within two or three eyes of the ground. Prune the 

 canes intended to be fruited the next year to the top of 

 the trellis, and cut back all laterals to one inch :^f the 

 main stem. 



