APPENDIX. 107 



on the surface of the groimd. Then we throw about it 

 one or two cart loads of good loam, working it up into 

 a sort of mound, of a concave or crescent form, sloping 

 off to a distance of six feet from the tree on all sides. 

 After this we mulch the whole mound very heavily with 

 leaf mould, or old litter, and keep it so mulched, winter 

 and summer, for two years. The mulch must be heavy 

 enough to keep the mound constantly moist in summer, 

 and to keep out frost in winter. 



Deciduous trees we plant in the same way, as near 

 the surface as possible, and rarely dig a hole over four 

 to six inches deep. If the bottom roots are too long, 

 we shorten them. In setting the tree, we spread out 

 the roots on every side, so as to form a natural support 

 to the tree, in the same way that the ropes or guys 

 support a derrick. The same rule of planting we apply, 

 as nearly as possible, to fruit trees, though it is often 

 difficult to do this with some of the stock obtained from 

 the common nurseries. A great mistake is made by 

 some nurserymen in working pears on the quince ; 

 they almost always work them too high on the stem. 

 If budded as low as they ought to be, (right down on 

 the crown of the quince root,) they could be planted 

 shallow much more successfully ; it would enable us to 

 cover the bud with two or three inches of soil, without 

 being compelled to plunge the roots deep into the cold 

 and sterile sub-soil. 



And here let us say, that in setting out deciduous 

 ornamental trees, and standard fruit trees, after the 



