OF THE BRITISH ISLANDS. 



89 



pink hue of the fish, as exposed for sale in the markets, is 

 produced artificially by the undoubtedly cruel practice of 

 removing its scales immediately after capture and while 

 still alive, such process causing the permanent contraction 

 and correspondingly more brilliant display of the red 

 pigment contained in the colour-cells or chromatophores 

 distributed over the surface of the body. A similar brilliant 

 colouration is transitorily exhibited by the fish when dying 

 under ordinary conditions, and it was one of the favourite 





FlG. 3. RED MULLET (Mullus surmuletus). 



pastimes of the barbaric Romans to hold banquets for the 

 express purpose of watching the changing colours of the 

 Red Mullet during its death agonies, fabulous prices being 

 paid for examples of more than ordinary size. The epicure 

 Asinius Celer is thus, by way of example, stated to have 

 expended a sum equal to no less than sixty-five pounds of 

 our currency upon a single fish, and even higher prices than 

 this are authentically recorded. The so-called Surmullet 

 or " Striped Red Mullet," which is actually much more abun- 



