20 



fat is chiefly found in the underside of the fish, a slice from 

 the back only should be taken by such persons ; and in the 

 fresh crimped fish the fat is in a more wholesome state 

 than when on the second or third day after leaving the 

 water it becomes oily and acquires a slight characteristic 

 taste and odour. 



One word about the crimping of fish ; I am glad to be 

 able to state not only that the process of crimping does not 

 require the animal to be alive, for its proper performance, 

 as some have stated, but that as a matter of fact the opera- 

 tion is not done on the living fish. Were I not satisfied on 

 this head, I would not give any countenance to the practice. 

 The mackerel is another oily fish, and it disagrees with 

 some persons accordingly ; so is the red mullet, but the oil 

 is chiefly in the liver, and gives the fish its peculiar flavour 

 and value. 



The second list of fish I shall call your attention to is 

 headed by the Dory, an admirable fish with a peculiar firm, 

 short, flakey and very white flesh, belonging to the 

 first rank in all respects, and not sufficiently appreciated. 

 The brill, the grey mullet, the haddock, the fresh herring 

 and the flounder follow, all excellent food, and wanting 

 only proper treatment in the kitchen to make them very 

 palatable, of which a hint or two presently. Then the 

 herring, the pilchard and smaller varieties of the family, 

 by reason of their abundance, the facility with which they 

 are preserved, and of the fat which they contain, furnish 

 large supplies of useful food not only here but to other 

 European populations. Next in order the skate and the 

 plaice, of which the same may be said ; while their price 

 also brings them, or should do so, within the range of the 

 working man ; in nutritive qualities they rank much higher 

 than the sole and whiting. 



