24 



also subsequently be incurred in the kitchen. For in 

 utilising fish, as far as possible, and in circumstances where 

 a strict economy must be regarded, the soft part of almost 

 any fish may be cooked apart, so that the skeleton, head 

 and fins may be utilised for stock, these parts being of 

 course useless for that purpose when already cooked, as by 

 boiling, frying, &c. 



A soup, or what is better a stew of fish, may be made in 

 a very savoury and nutritious form for the working man ; 

 or it may be presented as a delicate and attractive dish for 

 an experienced palate. It is not within the narrow limits 

 of this paper to furnish details for either product, but the 

 subject well deserves to be practically studied, and especially 

 in relation to the charitable soup-kitchen, where fish may 

 thus prove of great value, as well as for other gastronomic 

 purposes. I have recently had an opportunity of seeing the 

 Department of Practical Cookery here, and can testify to 

 the excellent work which has been carried out in the direc- 

 tion indicated. The less esteemed kinds of fish already 

 referred to, when better markets and improved modes of 

 distribution exist, will abundantly furnish the means of 

 producing a nutritive dish at a very small cost, especially 

 in the colder season of the year. 



I shall, before closing this paper, venture to offer a prac- 

 tical suggestion or two in reference to preparation of fish 

 for the table, which, considering the terms of our subject, 

 appear to me to be sufficiently important to be brought 

 under your notice here, and to which your consideration 

 may be fairly invited. I think it will be universally admitted 

 that, according to the present usage adopted by the majo- 

 rity of consumers in this country, the bulk of our fish is 

 cooked almost invariably by one of the three following 

 methods : 



