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manner not attained by any other process. It is very 

 rarely practised, simply, I believe, because any other than 

 stereotyped methods in cookery are always regarded with 

 suspicion, and are very slowly adopted by the public, 

 until attention has been thoroughly aroused on the 

 subject. The opportunity offering a few years ago, I 

 advocated its occasional use, but I wish now to show how 

 widely it is applicable, and how well it deserves at least 

 to rank among the other and better known modes of 

 preparing fish. It consists in placing the fish, after the 

 usual cleaning, entire, if of moderate size, say from a sole 

 to a small turbot or dory, in a tin or plated copper dish 

 adapted to the form and size of the fish, but a little 

 deeper than the thickness of it, so as to retain all the 

 juices, which by exposure to the heat will flow out ; the 

 surface is to be lightly spread with butter, and a 

 morsel or two added ; the dish is then to be placed 

 in a Dutch or American oven, or with some other screen 

 to reflect the rays of heat, in front of a clear fire.* The 

 advantages of this method are, that the fish is cooked 

 entirely in its own juices, which are abundant, and form 

 the best sauce, and that these juices which contain part 

 of the nutriment and much of the characteristic flavour 

 are saved and utilised ; lastly, the direct action of the 

 fire browning the surface of the fish, gives that peculiar and 

 appetising flavour which is the especial charm of the 



* Mr. W. Burton, of Oxford Street, has been good enough to send 

 an oven or two, and some dishes, which he has made expressly for me, 

 suitable for cooking fish before the fire. The oven is a modification 

 of that known as the " American," being rather deeper, from before 

 backwards, and much shallower, from above downwards, on account 

 of the flat form of fish not occupying the space which is required by 

 joints of meat. 



