26 THE LAST CRUISE OF THE MIRANDA. 



Newfoundland loomed up before us through a fog. As one 

 of our compasses needed repairing it was decided to run into 

 the capital city, St. Johns, in order to have the necessary 

 adjustments made. The city is snugly hidden in a beautiful 

 harbor behind high hills, and is a sudden revelation after 

 entering the narrow channel that flows into the harbor. At 

 the mouth of this channel we beheld our first iceberg — a very 

 small affair when compared with the countless numbers that 

 appeared to us later ; but as it was the first one, and as we had 

 not then formed standards of comparison, the baby berg cre- 

 ated much excitement, if not enthusiasm. 



We remained at St. Johns long enough for the party to 

 land and stretch their legs for a few hours. The city pre- 

 sents a fine appearance from the harbor, but it has not yet 

 recovered from the terrible fire which swept it in 1892, and 

 whose devastations are only too apparent when a landing has 

 been effected. A great many ruins are to be seen, especially 

 of public buildings which were swept away ; temporary and 

 unsightly small wooden structures have been erected until 

 better ones come in course of time ; for St. Johns has not 

 risen out of its ashes with the rapidity of Chicago and Boston ; 

 the mills of God grind slowly there, and the rapidity of Yankee 

 methods is unknown. 



At St. Johns, though we were there but a few hours, we 

 were greeted again with all sorts of dire prophecies concern- 

 ing our folly in venturing northward in an iron ship. It was, 

 therefore, a considerable relief to all on board when Dr. Cook 

 returned from a pilgrimage to the shore, bringing with him a 

 veteran ice-pilot in the person of Mr. Patrick Dumphy, who 

 had been mate of the Kite on Peary's first expedition in 

 search of the Pole, and who was looked upon as a standard 

 authority on Arctic navigation. Mr. Dumphy's services had 

 Ibeen secured as ice-pilot, and he proved to be an oracle, some- 

 thing upon the pattern of the famous Jack Bunsby, guide, 



