314 — How to Make the Garden Pay. 



large crop can be grown on a small area. In all other ways 

 the plants should be treated as already directed for general 

 culture. This plan, although well enough suited to the narrow 

 limits of the average village garden, is not the one which I would 

 advise the farmer to adopt. The size of his kitchen garden is 

 (or should be) in correspondence with the greater opportunities 

 in regard to area, manure supply, and available labor which the 

 farm affords, and with the greater demands of the farmer's large 

 household for vegetables and fruits. One acre — rather more 

 than less — is just about the proper area, and it should be arranged 

 somewhat similar as shown in the diagrams on pages 20 and 22. 

 This will give him the largest possible results with the least 

 possible demands for hand labor. By all means let the farmer 

 plant his strawberries, and his other small fruits in same plot 

 also, in long rows, as advised for the market grower, and cultivate 

 by horse power, early, often, and thoroughly, to save hand labor. 



Rotation. — Many growers, especially market gardeners, 

 take off only a single crop, plow up the patch after the fruiting 

 season, and plant it to potatoes, turnips, celery, or other crops. 

 But if to be kept for another year, the matted rows after fruiting 

 should be narrowed down again, using a one-horse plow, a sharp- 

 cutting cultivator, or wheel-hoe, and left not over 6 inches in 

 width. New runners are now allowed to occupy the whole space 

 of the original matted row, thus renewing the plantation. Guard 

 against weeds. I do not believe in fruiting a patch more than 

 two years, or three at most, and new beds should be planted every 

 other year to take the place of the old ones. 



Insects and Diseases. — The larvae of the sawfly is some- 

 times and in some sections very destructive to the foliage. For a 

 remedy try a solution of hellebore, one ounce to two gallons of 

 water, and sprinkle or spray it on the plants. 



The strawberry leaf-roller is another destructive foe, the larvae 

 of a moth which is two-brooded. The presence of this worm is 

 easily detected by the rolled-up leaves. The simplest remedy is 

 to mow the field after fruiting, and when the stuff is dry enough, 

 set fire to it. 



For the crown-borer, troublesome in the west and far north, 

 and the strawberry root-borer, a small caterpillar, I know no 

 remedy except plowing up the whole patch and starting a new 

 plantation elsewhere. 



The white grub has been already mentioned. The larvae of 

 the goldsmith beetle resembles it in appearance and life habits, 

 and should be managed in the same way. 



The tarnished plant-bug, and the dusky plant-bug are very 

 unwelcome visitors to many strawberry plantations, and little 

 can be done to keep them off. Spraying with the kerosene 

 emulsion, or solution of buhach may do some good. 



