Strawberry Culture. — 315 



These and all other insect foes can most easily be kept in 

 check by a frequent renewal of the plantations (wide crop rota- 

 tion), and by mowing and burning the foliage after fruiting. 

 This treatment will also tend to prevent the strawberry diseases, 

 such as scald, rust, etc. 



Another Method of Planting. — For loamy soils that are 

 free from stones, I prefer setting the plants with a spade. I think 

 it is by far the most convenient and most expeditious method. 

 Let one person take a common sharp spade, and another (a boy 

 will do) take a bundle of plants made ready for going into the 

 ground. The field has been marked out four feet apart, or the 

 plants are set by line. Thrust the spade into the ground where 

 you want the first plant, and slightly turn or pull the handle tow- 

 ard you, thus making an opening two or three inches wide on 

 top at the back of the spade. The boy takes a plant, spreads the 

 roots with a quick, jerky motion, and inserts them, as deeply 

 as needed, into the opening. At the same time withdraw 

 the spade and press the soil against the newly-set plant with the 

 foot. Then repeat the operation where you want the next 

 plant. One man and boy can plant an acre in a day in this 

 manner with ease. 



Forcing Strawberries. — Sometimes this crop can be 

 grown under glass with profit. In July young thrifty plants are 

 started in pots for next winter's crop. Fill three-inch pots with 

 good soil, and sink them to the rim along the rows of the stock 

 plants. The earlier this is done after the layers start the better. 

 The layers will need directing to the pots, and can be kept in 

 place by means of a peg, stone or clod of earth. By keeping 

 the plants well watered they will be rooted in about three weeks. 

 Then place them in the shade until the pots are full of roots, and 

 after that shift into six-inch pots. Pot rather firmly into 

 good fibrous earth, standing the pots in an open, airy place, 

 preferably in coal ashes, and giving them all the water they need. 

 Before freezing weather, plunge the pots into cold frames and 

 water sparingly. Any time after this, according to the exact 

 time that you want the ripe fruit, the plants may be started up. 

 Place them in the greenhouse, beginning with a temperature of 

 45 degrees Fahrenheit, gradually increasing until it reaches 60 

 degrees. Also increase the water supply gradually as the season 

 advances. Plants for later use must be protected from severe 

 freezing. Don't allow the plants to set too much fruit, else the 

 berries will be small. A moderate number of good-sized berries 

 will be more satisfactory than a large number of small ones. 

 When enough have set, clip off the remaining flowers, and later 

 on pick off the smallest berries also. Syringe freely to keep 

 down red spider. Water moderately at the roots. Give liquid 



